Artist's Palate: Olaf Nicolai's Glitscher

(Image credit: press)

last updated 13 October 2022

One of Germany's leading conceptual artists, Olaf Nicolai grew up in Karl-Marx-Stadt (now Chemnitz) in the heart of Saxony. His work deals with political dichotomies and cultural criticism, so it is perhaps rather fitting that he has chosen the humble Saxon potato fritter as his dish. Also called Kartoffelpuffer or Reibekuchen, these fried grated potato patties are found across Germany and Central Europe. They are often eaten with puréed apple in Berlin or with sauerkraut in Bavaria, but Nicolai prefers his seasoned with caraway seeds and buttermilk - simple ingredients for a dish rich in cultural complexity.

Method

Peel and grate 6-7 large potatoes

Add: a large peeled and grated onion
200g quark (curd cheese)
½ glass of buttermilk (approx. 200 ml)
some caraway seeds
salt

Mix well in a large bowl. Heat some sunflower or linseed oil in a pan and then add several spoonfuls of the potato mixture, flattening it with a spatula into thin pancake shapes. Fry until golden brown on both sides, turning once. Serve hot straight out of the pan either savoury with a little extra buttermilk poured over or sweet with sugar and a large dollop of apple puree with cloves and cinnamon.

This is a dish to be eaten mornings or evenings.

Melina Keays is the entertaining director of Wallpaper*. She has been part of the brand since the magazine’s launch in 1996, and is responsible for entertaining content across the print and digital platforms, and for Wallpaper’s creative agency Bespoke. A native Londoner, Melina takes inspiration from the whole spectrum of art and design – including film, literature, and fashion. Her work for the brand involves curating content, writing, and creative direction – conceiving luxury interior landscapes with a focus on food, drinks, and entertaining in all its forms