Essential forms become precious playthings in the hands of Kimy Gringoire, who has once again rethought the parameters of functionality in her newly unveiled jewellery pieces. Familiar symbols, drawn in 18-ct gold, take on a mischievous new meaning. Wrists and fingers are enclosed in golden handcuffs, while rings flip open to reveal rows of diamonds, bringing a subversive sensuality to innocuous motifs.
‘First, I kept the idea of movement, originally based on signature mechanisms and creating contrasts into the jewellery,’ the jewellery designer says. ‘ I kept this idea alive as I believe we are all plurals in many ways, and I like jewels to adapt ourselves and not the opposite. When I launched Kimy Gringoire jewellery in 2021 with the ‘Love Cables’ collection, even though you could see no mechanism within the pieces, you can actually feel the movement of the cables, flowing around the body, representing the movement, the pulse of love within us.’
It is a narrative that remains in the new collection, with strong symbols expressed through a structural design perspective. ‘For me, good design in this industry still means challenging the nobility of “fine jewellery” by imagining new shapes that respect the body’s curves. This requires not just good design, but design that suits the body and can be worn every day. As Dieter Rams said, “Good design is as little design as possible.” Less, but better – you concentrate on the essential aspects for long-lasting pieces. My designs are not burdened with non-essentials, we focus on purity and simplicity.’
‘Originally, I designed the first classic pieces based on my wish to create timeless jewellery, with simple but powerful designs,’ Gringoire adds. ‘It was like allowing a certain freedom in the traditional take on jewellery. The pieces are still luxury and they are still precious; however, they offer this dual aspect that can be found in every woman. An uncluttered design for powerful symbols, but also a versatile jewel that unveils a different side (revealing a diamond, an engraved word…) depending on what people like or feel like at a certain time. The desire to be sophisticated but also more casual in the same day. I wanted to create jewels for women who don’t consider luxury as pertaining to special occasions only.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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