A juxtaposition of interlaid diamonds makes for punkish fine and high jewellery in Bucherer’s ‘Rock Diamonds’ collection, which marries filigree and trapezoid-cut diamonds with polished gold.
‘The inspiration for this collection was to create a perfect play of opposites,’ says Robert Ambord, art director at Bucherer Fine Jewellery. ‘The masters of Bucherer Fine Jewellery’s ateliers performed a balancing act between imbalance and equilibrium and created precious pieces of absolute harmony and elegance through organised chaos.
‘Eye-catchers are always the trapezoid-cut diamonds, which endow every piece of jewellery with a distinctive depth. Brilliant-cut diamonds and polished gold add even more radiance. All the elements of the individual creations are carefully coordinated, allowing them literally to make the whole piece dance. It is the interplay between symmetry and asymmetry and balance and imbalance perfectly executed that stands at the core of each of these pieces.’
High jewellery pieces in white gold embrace an elegant asymmetry in an offbeat placing of precious stones and unexpected silhouettes, while fine jewellery in white and yellow gold encompasses a playful wearability. ‘A special trapezoid cut was used during processing to make the diamonds used sparkle even more,’ Ambord adds. ‘By adding the staircase-shaped arrangement of the facets, a special depth effect was achieved, while the cut reveals more surface at the same time. The elements in polished gold were arranged in such a way that they make the collection unique but fun at the same time.’
Creating the pieces was not without its challenges. ‘The trapezoid-cut diamonds were used in a new and modern way – edgy yet fluid and beautifully integrated into the overall design,’ says Ambord. ‘By using two small trapezoid-cut diamonds, a wonderful mirror effect was created in addition to the natural sparkle of the diamonds. The design is such that the trapezoid diamonds are always the highlight of every piece. For the high jewellery pieces, the trapezoid-cut diamonds used were of course larger and the technical challenges overall were bigger. All elements had to be put together in a way that makes them as a whole look as if they were floating naturally. Like dancing.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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