The Ukrainian brand bringing flexibility to jewellery design
The playful designs of Guzema Fine Jewelry mean jewellery can be worn in multiple ways
Former magazine editor Valeria Guzema puts minimalist silhouettes at the heart of her eponymous jewellery brand, Guzema Fine Jewelry, with playful designs and a thoughtful functionality – meaning that the new ‘DropDrop’ collection can be worn in a number of ways.
‘The “DropDrop” collection is conceived as jewellery that literally lives up to your rhythm,’ the Ukrainian jewellery designer says. ‘Today, everything around us is changing very quickly: events, lifestyle trends, technologies, fashion. There’s a huge demand for versatility and multifunctionality. This inspired me to create a collection of products that a woman can play with every day, depending on her mood or plans. Transformable jewellery also satisfies the request for customisation. “DropDrop” earrings, for example, can be customised for each client so that they look like different pieces.’
Jewellery is simply modified – beads on the earrings are easily adjusted, while chain lengths can be effortlessly lengthened and shortened, with necklaces hanging loose or worn as chokers.
‘I thought about how often women’s moods change, as we constantly desire something new and beautiful,’ Guzema adds. ‘It gave me an insight: playing with the same piece of jewellery is a perfect solution. “DropDrop” is jewellery mechanics in action: the length and geometry of the pieces are adjusted by a device hidden under a round gold bead, so you can play infinitely with each piece.’
The gold beads are made by hand and consist of two parts, making for a simple and effective mechanism. ‘All the products are minimalist and elegant,’ Guzema says. ‘I create jewellery that never goes out of fashion and will be relevant always and in every situation. I would love to see my jewellery passed down from generation to generation, from mother to daughter and granddaughter. It is jewellery which encompasses a classy and playful luxe minimalism.’
Currently based in Spain, rather than her native Chernihiv, as a result of the war in Ukraine, Guzema is donating 100 per cent of her current profits to the army and the population of her native city, through her charity foundation that was previously dedicated to children's medical treatment.
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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