Goossens’ jewellery imbues insect forms with a magical realism
Harumi Klossowska de Rola’s third collection for Goossens rethinks the butterfly and the dragonfly
![Gold animal jewellery by Goossens.](https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/KuhakDP2yvA8UR3EP6ns53-415-80.jpg)
Japanese animism meets jewellery in Harumi Klossowska de Rola’s third capsule collection for Goossens. Bracelets, rings and earrings are imbued with elegant lifelike forms for wearable artworks that become golden insects fluttering on earlobes or perching in the hair.
Klossowska de Rola draws on magical design codes for the pieces, which appear as if from an enchanted pond. This jewellery plays on the fantastical forms of the dragonfly and Kallima inachus (or orange oak leaf) butterfly, whose leaf-like silhouette marks the intertwining of the animal and natural worlds.
For Klossowska de Rola, it was a fine line between representation and realism. ‘I start from the idea of the jewel as an object. Whether worn or not, I like it to have its own existence. I work with wax, so it was challenging because I wanted to give some details – as on the butterflies – but yet didn’t want to be too realistic. The challenge with the dragonflies was that I didn’t want them to be similar to the style of the 1920s.’
The limited-edition jewellery, in metal with a gold finish, can be worn in multiple ways, with the dragonfly able to rest on the ear or on a jacket lapel. In other pieces, it spreads its wings on a finger or sits in the hollow of the neck. The butterfly can make an elegant piece of hair jewellery, ring or earrings, with an oversized pendant making a chic play on proportions.
‘I would say that what I like the most is when you see irregularities, imperfection, wabi-sabi,’ adds Klossowska de Rola. ‘I love all insects, all butterflies. Because they’re inspired by nature, there’s something alive about them that's rather lucky.’
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter + Free Download
For a free digital copy of August Wallpaper*, celebrating Creative America, sign up today to receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
‘Hedonistic and avant-garde’: Rabanne’s Julian Dossena on the legacy of the chainmail 1969 bag
Paco Rabanne’s 1969 chainmail handbag encapsulates the late designer’s futuristic, space-age style. Current creative director Julien Dossena tells Wallpaper* about the bag’s particular pleasures
By Jack Moss Published
-
Postcard from Paris: Olympic fever takes over the streets
On the eve of the opening ceremony of Paris 2024, our correspondent shares her views from the streets of the capital about how the event is impacting the urban landscape.
By Minako Norimatsu Published
-
The Mercury Prize nominees for 2024 have been revealed
Charli XCX, The Last Dinner Party and Beth Gibbons are amongst this year's nominees
By Charlotte Gunn Published