Book news: Dior Joaillerie
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That Dior (opens in new tab)’s new book pays homage to the wonders of fine jewellery is, in itself, a delight. That it focuses specifically on the work of its head jewellery and watch designer Victoire de Castellane, is even more so. This beautifully filled tome is one that all lovers of jewellery, fantasy and fabulous adornment have been waiting for.
Dior Joaillerie, published by Rizzoli (opens in new tab), dedicates almost 400 pages to Castellane’s tenure at the maison. Since arriving at the Place Vendôme, where she launched Dior Fine Jewellery in 1988, Castellane has changed the way we look at fine jewels, with her skewed vision of what they can be.
'I didn’t set out to shock, seek a tabula rasa, or start a revolution,' she said. 'I wanted to be sincere in my work to rekindle the magic of jewellery and make it more feminine.' Her apparent notion of femininity is what makes much of Castellane’s work so compelling: a heady mix of realism and fantasy, her jewellery it is at once bright and pretty, imperfect and a little strange. And, fundamentally, it’s funny too.
The 'Nuit Blanche' bow is a fine example: it is slightly dishevelled, the idea being that it reflects the story of how an evening party unfolds, as opposed to how it should start. There’s also an undisputed dark side to her ring, earring and necklace designs. For the 'Belladone Island' collection, Castellane created a range of flower-inspired pieces. Yet, one glance tells you that these are not of the floral and scented variety. Instead, their clashing hues and misshapen organic forms warn of their poisonous nature.
Castellane’s bold, vibrant and narrative style is beautifully and carefully translated by the expert metal workers, enamellers and gem setters with whom she shares her studio at Dior, which only goes to show that those who make her creations derive as much pleasure from them as those who wear them.
Victoire de Castellane, in her studio at Dior HQ, Paris
The Debutante necklace in white gold and diamonds alludes to the fabric trimmings central to couture design
Pink sapphires adorn the Dior Favorite bow ring in white gold diamonds
The misshapen beauty of Victoire de Castellane’s designs are summed up in the Aveu and Angelique rings
Colour and excess were central to de Castellane’s Dior Incroyables et Merveilleuses collection, as these rings reflect
Quotes from Christian Dior are laced throughout the book
Expertly painted gouaches of realised pieces, such as these Incroyables et Marveilleuses rings, are also revealed throughout the book
A collection of Incroyables et Merveilleuses rings
Christian Dior was a keen gardener. The Milly-la-Forêt flower rings reflect his passion
A Coccinelle de Jour earring looks almost ready to fly
The Carnico Papidevorus brooch from the Belladone Island collection
Carnivora Fluora Eternita rings from the Belladone Island collection are a mishmash of diamonds, tourmalines and emeralds
Mangatus Orange Réglisse and Mangatus Pistache Fraise rings in super-bright lacquer and diamonds
Favorite du Harem hand jewellery – a range inspired by Baudelaire’s ‘The Jewels’
Pieces from the La Fiancé du Vampire collection, inspired by films including King Kong, Beauty and the Beast and Nosferatu
The La Fiancé du Vampire collection is fashioned in gold diamonds and spinels
A trip to Hong Kong in the early 2000s had a marked influence on De Castellane. This press display reflects the toys, exotic fruits and clashing colours that inspired her Coffret de Victoire range
The Idylle à Valparaiso brooch is a cluster of seahorses, pearls, coral, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, white opal, pink spinel, lacquer and more
The Dior Nougat ring in yellow gold is a future classic
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