This lesser-known Greek island is full of surprises

With its rugged natural beauty, idyllic fishing villages and a languid pace of life that feels blissfully untouched by time, it might seem surprising that Leros has managed to fly under the radar for so long. Part of the reason is geographic. The island is part of the Dodecanese island group, which is far closer to the Turkish coast than mainland Greece. But, for the most part, it’s the island’s turbulent past that’s to blame for its low profile.

What to see and do in Leros

Following an invasion in 1912, Leros was occupied by Italian forces for more than 30 years. It was heavily bombarded during World War II, and another dark chapter began in 1958 with the opening of the Leros psychiatric hospital – a vast mental facility that became notorious for its neglectful patient care. But it’s exactly these layers of history that make Leros such a fascinating place to visit today.

The main highlight is Lakki, an Italian rationalist port town built during the period of occupation. It was here that Mussolini chose to construct a base for the Royal Italian Navy, and a new town was built to house those posted to the island. The result is a highly geometric, unornamented utopia that unfolds neatly around the head of the bay.

It’s a concrete-heavy mix of squat, boxy dwellings and art deco-inspired municipal buildings – all overlooked by a chunky brick clock tower. Those familiar with the work of artist Giorgio de Chirico won’t find it hard to spot his influence; architects Rodolfo Petracco and Armando Bernabiti took significant inspiration when designing Lakki.

A host of new enterprises and initiatives have brought fresh energy to the shores of Leros. In 2023, the Istanbul-based cultural foundation Perasma launched the Leros Project, a group exhibition held at various historic venues around the island for several months each summer (it is reportedly taking a break this year).

Leros has also been steadily building its culinary clout, helped in large part by the success of Mylos by the Sea. Since taking over their family’s humble taverna in 2012, brothers Yorgos and Marios Koutsounaris have transformed it into one of the country’s most highly regarded seafood restaurants, with a menu that puts a contemporary spin on local catch with dishes such as octopus carpaccio, parrot fish ceviche and sashimi-style bluefin tuna.

And there are various stylish new accommodation options, too. Among them is The Monk, a one-bedroom guesthouse opened in June last year by Prodromos Toufexis and Ioannis Zacharakis. The building was renovated by Zacharakis’ firm A+ Architects, who gave the building a sleek modern refit and filled it with a vibrant mix of contemporary and antique furnishings, as well as a selection of works by Greek artists.

From its position high on a hillside that spills down to Agia Marina Beach, it looks out over the island’s medieval castle, as well as a string of stone windmills that date back to the 18th century. And with its striking cobalt façade, The Monk has become something of a landmark itself.

‘People keep asking, why blue?’ says Toufexis. ‘I tell them that Greek island homes weren’t always painted white. That’s only something that became common midway through the 20th century. Houses actually used to be very colourful, and we wanted to keep up that tradition.’

A version of this article appears in the June 2026 Travel Issue of Wallpaper*, available in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.