Retreat to an earthy resort in a sylvan slice of the Algarve

Once seen as the preserve of those who dropped off the grid to spend their days surfing, the Algarve’s beautifully wild, western corner is smartening up its act with several new hotels and restaurants pulling in a crowd who would previously have headed to only the central or eastern side of the Faro District.

The owners of the new Vale Palheiro Earth Resort, Pedro and Madalena Rutkowski, fell hard for this landscape of raw beauty when passing through, purchasing the plot in 2011. Between slow bureaucracy and a halt for Covid, tracking down the right artisans to work on the project and finalising the complex architectural details, realising the property has been a long process. Only now has it opened as a 13-villa resort with a warm and welcoming restaurant.

Wallpaper* checks in at Vale Palheiro Earth Resort, Aljezur

What’s on your doorstep?

Literally on the doorstep, running through the resort is the Rota Vicentina, a network of walking trails across what is considered one of Europe’s most beautiful and well-preserved coastal areas. There are two main routes: The Fisherman’s Trail and the Historical Way; it is the latter that cuts through Vale Palheiro, taking hikers through rural valleys, clusters of cork oak trees and centuries of history visible in the ruins of ancient castles and fortresses.

For many, the key will be the proximity to Amoreira Beach, one of the Algarve’s loveliest and largest beaches with dramatic cliffs and soft golden sand. Despite its popularity with surfers, it is never too crowded. Neighbouring Vale Palheiro is the little town of Aljezur, whose tenth-century castle can be seen on the hill above the resort. It’s worth visiting the local market and eating in town at local bistro Cera(currently closed for winter).

Who is behind the design?

Leading the design was owner Madalena herself, an architect with decades of experience and former head of architecture at Portuguese practice GTA Gabinete Técnico de Arquitectura, who worked on the project alongside Lisbon-based Arkstudio. In addition, bringing his considerable knowledge into the mix and shaping the project was the late architect Henrique Schreck, a pioneering figure in the world of traditional earth construction techniques, particularly taipa, or rammed earth, evident in every corner of Vale Palheiro.

Seeing the Earth Resort from afar as you wind your way towards it allows an appreciation on another level. The different levels of the villas create the image of a small hamlet. The ochre colour of the buildings and the rammed earth, the pillars of rough schist stone that form buttresses, the old terracotta tiles that were sourced so painstakingly for the roofs and the chimneys, a perfect blend of Algarvian character and contemporary design, unite harmoniously in an aesthetic triumph.

The room to book

There are 13 villas, suites and casitas, each one different but all with glass-covered log fireplaces and outside spaces, whether with a table to eat at or a terrace with a sun lounger or both. As Madalena explained to me: ‘I wanted each space to feel grounded in its surroundings – using natural textures, earthy tones and handmade details. The layout of the villas and casitas was carefully thought out to encourage a fluid space – with open-plan living areas, large windows and transitional spaces that blur the line between indoors and out.’

The name of each villa enhances the sense of place, from Casa Lyra, named after the particular variety of sweet potatoes local to Aljezur, to Casa Vicentina, named for the surrounding region. All are lovely; which to book depends on whether you are there for a romantic weekend or to finish that novel. I loved my duplex Casa Taipa Villa 2 for its shower downstairs within exposed taipa, its vast micro-cement bath upstairs, where you could wallow watching the shifting colours of the landscape, and its terrace from where you could hear the tinkling of goat bells. The beds are superb, clad in Portuguese linen with Portuguese down and feather pillows. At turn-down, your log fire will be lit for the evening (depending on the season), and the many wooden shutters closed for the night.

Staying for drinks and dinner?

Softly illuminated at night, The Barn restaurant was warm and welcoming on my autumnal visit with an open kitchen, micro-cement floors and walls displaying wines and textile decorations. Outside, in summer, the terrace, lined with local rust-red, handmade Santa Catarina tiles, comes into its own with views over the large swimming pool and surrounding hills.

The menu is short, but the dishes deliver in terms of presentation and taste. Try the seabass with a rice of clams, prawns and lemon or an octopus salad with pomegranate and Parmesan. But save room for the superbly zingy pineapple carpaccio with lime and medronho, the local firewater. The wine list offers the best from all over Portugal and has been carefully curated by owner Pedro, for whom it is a great passion.

Where to switch off

Switching off is exactly what Vale Palheiro offers you the chance to do. There is yoga and massage on request, and a large swimming pool with sun beds around it to while away the time. There are trails to hike, and bikes to borrow to explore the surrounding area. The nearest beach is a 15-minute walk away. There are also terraces off most rooms with sun beds for you to just enjoy the views over the valley. It is a beautiful swathe of unspoilt countryside.

The Verdict

This is exactly the kind of hotel the Algarve needs more of. Impressively designed with character and a real sense of place, it champions the region, so long shaped by the neighbouring Atlantic Ocean, and offers visitors a chance to immerse themselves in its simple, rural authenticity.

Vale Palheiro Earth Resort is located at Rua Vale Palheiro , 8670-016 Aljezur. www.valepalheiro.com. Rates: from €330 inc. breakfast.