Graduate Directory 2020: Watches & Jewellery

Graduate Directory 2020: Watches & Jewellery

Casting their gaze between the technical and the technological, our pick of graduate jewellery pioneers have bright futures in watch and jewellery design. Discover what separates the best from the rest here

Yilin Wang
Royal College of Art, UK

Mesh underwear held by two hands

Wang’s moulded silver wire undergarment is designed to bear tension and is surprisingly resilient. When worn, its intricate weave embosses the skin. ‘I wanted to conceptualise the beautiful and delicate nature behind the archetype of the submissive and silent East Asian female,’ says Wang.

Dream collaborator: Loewe

Jing Jiang
Central Saint Martins, UK

Circular earring with gold detailing

The ancient Chinese technique of tian-tsui, where blue kingfisher feathers are used to inlay and cover the surfaces of ornaments, is subverted in Jiang’s designs. Her modern, sustainability-consious take utilises discarded poultry feathers to create exquisitely technical jewellery pieces.

Dream collaborator: Nendo

Erinn M Cox
Estonian Academy of Arts, Estonia

Black mesh gathered necklace

Cox’s satisfyingly weighty designs are constructed of hundreds of tightly wound rings of oxidised copper. Pieced together with thick slabs of metal and crafted silver, her work expresses the suffering and burden of grief in physical form.

Dream collaborator: Portuguese sculptor Rui Chafes

Zihan Zhou
Birmingham School of Jewellery, UK

Zihan Zhou’s tags in silver

Zhou’s tags in brass, gold, steel and diamonds are an observation on the unending nature of desire. Rather than remaining unworn, they become a precious adornment in their own right, ensuring every shirt is permanently new.

Dream collaborator: Industrial designer Shunji Yamanaka


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