Mathieu Goosse: Wallpaper* Next Generation 2021

Our Next Generation 2021 showcase shines a light on 21 outstanding graduates from around the globe, Wallpaper’s pick of the best new talent in seven creative fields. Here, we profile Institut Français de la Mode, Paris graduate Mathieu Goosse.

Mathieu Goose jacket and trousers
Knee high boots, £584, by Manu Atelier. Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
(Image credit: Sade Mia-Sangar)

Intuition is inherent to Belgian-born designer Mathieu Goosse’s creative approach. ‘I don’t work with a classic moodboard of references,’ he explains. ‘I don’t want to over-analyse an idea before I develop it.’ An elegant, gender-subverting fluidity features in Goosse’s pieces, which include pooling satin dresses paired with deconstructed tailored jackets, bird-shape bikini tops swathed in sequins and caged beaded dresses. He references Rick Owens, Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons as inspiration. 

Mathieu Goosse. Dream collaborator: Expert artisans

Mathieu Goosse. Dream collaborator: Expert artisans

(Image credit: Sade Mia-Sangar )

Goosse previously studied industrial design, and is interested in the relationship between the body and external objects. The designer notes an affinity between his first year collection and the domestic realities of today. Titled ‘I’m waiting for you at home,’ it explored the interplay between garments and furniture. ‘I find it interesting that people have started looking at their houses differently’, Goosse adds.

Goosse grew up in the Belgian countryside, in a family of artisans. As a result, he favours hand-honed, craft-focused techniques, and fabrics that have a time-worn touch. ‘Sometimes you can make a detail on a vintage garment exist in a more beautiful way,’ he says. ‘Growing up in a remote region, I often had to work with materials I had right next to me.’

Mathieu Goose sleeveless jacket

(Image credit: Sade Mia-Sangar)


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