
Dunhill: Creative director Mark Weston’s fourth collection for the British brand looked to explore and play with tradition and subversion. The archetypal British approach to dress is one that includes the street and the countryside; the high and the low. ‘It was about rediscovering sophistication,’ he said. ‘Elegance with quietness. I wanted to build on last season where we had those couture elements mixed with things that are more technical. Bringing the city and the country together. I love playing with that kind of contrast.’ The cords were 80s casual, but in Weston’s dressed up way. Cummerbunds were worn askew. Sinuous wrapped tailoring slackened the stuffiness of classic double-breasted jackets. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dunhill: Creative director Mark Weston’s fourth collection for the British brand looked to explore and play with tradition and subversion. The archetypal British approach to dress is one that includes the street and the countryside; the high and the low. ‘It was about rediscovering sophistication,’ he said. ‘Elegance with quietness. I wanted to build on last season where we had those couture elements mixed with things that are more technical. Bringing the city and the country together. I love playing with that kind of contrast.’ The cords were 80s casual, but in Weston’s dressed up way. Cummerbunds were worn askew. Sinuous wrapped tailoring slackened the stuffiness of classic double-breasted jackets. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Ami: An air of elegance and sophistication flowed through the AMI A/W 2019 collection. In an almond carpeted room surrounded by matching curtains, designer Alexandre Mattiussi continued to build on his unique perspective on clothing for the real man, but this time upping the luxe factor. A voluminous drop shoulder coat was thrown over a slouchy cable knit jumper and teamed with cropped trousers in head-to-toe cream, while a tailored camel jacket was worn with baggy wide leg trousers and extra long scarf. Elsewhere, a neat leather bomber with shearling collar was worn over a roll neck and cardigan twin set, and boxy check blazers with chocolate brown cords. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ami: An air of elegance and sophistication flowed through the AMI A/W 2019 collection. In an almond carpeted room surrounded by matching curtains, designer Alexandre Mattiussi continued to build on his unique perspective on clothing for the real man, but this time upping the luxe factor. A voluminous drop shoulder coat was thrown over a slouchy cable knit jumper and teamed with cropped trousers in head-to-toe cream, while a tailored camel jacket was worn with baggy wide leg trousers and extra long scarf. Elsewhere, a neat leather bomber with shearling collar was worn over a roll neck and cardigan twin set, and boxy check blazers with chocolate brown cords. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Acne Studios: creative director and brand co-founder Jonny Johansson looked to ‘the outside’ and counter-culture groups for inspiration this season. This manifested itself in jersey tops with purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knitted jumpers and ponchos came with extra long fringes that almost touch the ground. Tailored jackets in jersey were cut close to the body, with small flowers trapped in see-through buttons. Rubber boots came with chunky industrial soles, while mini carry case bags resembled survival kits. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Acne Studios: creative director and brand co-founder Jonny Johansson looked to ‘the outside’ and counter-culture groups for inspiration this season. This manifested itself in jersey tops with purposefully imperfect ribbing, patched with images from the classic anatomical textbook Gray’s Anatomy. Chunky knitted jumpers and ponchos came with extra long fringes that almost touch the ground. Tailored jackets in jersey were cut close to the body, with small flowers trapped in see-through buttons. Rubber boots came with chunky industrial soles, while mini carry case bags resembled survival kits. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Givenchy: Seventies gloss met the cocksure attitude of the 1990s in Clare Waight Keller’s A/W 2019 Givenchy menswear collection – her first standalone presentation during the menswear calendar since arriving at the house in 2017. A floor inside the Palais Brongniart – an elegant Haussmannian apartment in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower – was laid with pools of fresh baby’s-breath. Guests sipped coffee in Givenchy monogrammed paper-cups, easing around clusters of mannequins draped in a series of exquisite, sharp looks. They underlined Keller’s retro-romantic mood for the house. The silhouette for suiting was lean, the line of trousers crisp – slim through the leg and gently flared at the knee. For evening, jackets were covered in micro-glass hand-beading. Daywear was given a couture upgrade too; a windbreaker in cocooning technical fabric had the sheen of moiré; checks were tailored into coats and jackets with mother-of-pearl buttons and occasionally embellished with leopard spots. This was hardcore chic.
Givenchy: Seventies gloss met the cocksure attitude of the 1990s in Clare Waight Keller’s A/W 2019 Givenchy menswear collection – her first standalone presentation during the menswear calendar since arriving at the house in 2017. A floor inside the Palais Brongniart – an elegant Haussmannian apartment in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower – was laid with pools of fresh baby’s-breath. Guests sipped coffee in Givenchy monogrammed paper-cups, easing around clusters of mannequins draped in a series of exquisite, sharp looks. They underlined Keller’s retro-romantic mood for the house. The silhouette for suiting was lean, the line of trousers crisp – slim through the leg and gently flared at the knee. For evening, jackets were covered in micro-glass hand-beading. Daywear was given a couture upgrade too; a windbreaker in cocooning technical fabric had the sheen of moiré; checks were tailored into coats and jackets with mother-of-pearl buttons and occasionally embellished with leopard spots. This was hardcore chic.

Undercover: The recent focus for much of the Japanese label’s output has been the work of celebrated director Stanley Kubrick. Last season, Jun Takahashi cited the cinematic masterpiece 2001: A Space Odyssey as an important reference. For A/W 2019, he looked to A Clockwork Orange, resulting in a range of brimmed beanie-hats, velvet suits and large prints of scenes from the film placed onto hoodies and padded jackets. Shoes were made in collaboration with Dr. Martens and Nike. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Undercover: The recent focus for much of the Japanese label’s output has been the work of celebrated director Stanley Kubrick. Last season, Jun Takahashi cited the cinematic masterpiece 2001: A Space Odyssey as an important reference. For A/W 2019, he looked to A Clockwork Orange, resulting in a range of brimmed beanie-hats, velvet suits and large prints of scenes from the film placed onto hoodies and padded jackets. Shoes were made in collaboration with Dr. Martens and Nike. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans