Ann Demeulemeester: Sébastien Meunier explored volume and layering for A/W 2017. In a collection presented almost entirely in Demeulemeester black, darkly textured coats contoured the body and were worn over fluid, wide leg trousers that hit the floor in puddles. Underneath shirts were worn long with cropped waistcoats, ruffled high neck collars and long lace ties hinted at the Victorian. Elsewhere military jackets appeared in velvet and oversized knitted jumpers came web-like, while floppy fedora hats were tipped with an array of feathers.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ann Demeulemeester: Sébastien Meunier explored volume and layering for A/W 2017. In a collection presented almost entirely in Demeulemeester black, darkly textured coats contoured the body and were worn over fluid, wide leg trousers that hit the floor in puddles. Underneath shirts were worn long with cropped waistcoats, ruffled high neck collars and long lace ties hinted at the Victorian. Elsewhere military jackets appeared in velvet and oversized knitted jumpers came web-like, while floppy fedora hats were tipped with an array of feathers.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Lemaire: This is a label that consistently shows easy, smart clothes for all year, transeasonal dressing. And for A/W 2017, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran channelled a slightly tougher mood than in previous seasons; trousers were cropped and pressed sharp, paired with roomy box leather boots. Chinos in workwear cotton satin had buckles at the cuff and elegant double breasted jackets were dropped and worn with slim trousers reflecting a more youthful, nonchalant attitude.
Lemaire: This is a label that consistently shows easy, smart clothes for all year, transeasonal dressing. And for A/W 2017, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran channelled a slightly tougher mood than in previous seasons; trousers were cropped and pressed sharp, paired with roomy box leather boots. Chinos in workwear cotton satin had buckles at the cuff and elegant double breasted jackets were dropped and worn with slim trousers reflecting a more youthful, nonchalant attitude.
Helbers: Paul Helber's looked to a self-portrait of a young boy painted by a 19th century French artist Émile Friant for inspiration this season. The handsome subject fuelled a wardrobe of softly tailored jackets, easy shirts, languid knitwear and fluid trousers. Highlights included a wool down coat that snugly hugged the wearer, a cardigan-like blazer and an expanded shoe collection that included bucked ankle boots and crepe sole suede creepers.
Helbers: Paul Helber's looked to a self-portrait of a young boy painted by a 19th century French artist Émile Friant for inspiration this season. The handsome subject fuelled a wardrobe of softly tailored jackets, easy shirts, languid knitwear and fluid trousers. Highlights included a wool down coat that snugly hugged the wearer, a cardigan-like blazer and an expanded shoe collection that included bucked ankle boots and crepe sole suede creepers.
Facetasm: Creative director Hiromichi Ochiai explored the relationship that his native Japan has with diversity, resulting in a collection full of chaotic sophistication. Free from a singular narrative, his A/W 2017 offering spliced together recognisable menswear classics; roomy bombers, military parkas and technical ski jackets were merged and worn layered. Gentleman's pyjamas also came in puffer-velvet.
Facetasm: Creative director Hiromichi Ochiai explored the relationship that his native Japan has with diversity, resulting in a collection full of chaotic sophistication. Free from a singular narrative, his A/W 2017 offering spliced together recognisable menswear classics; roomy bombers, military parkas and technical ski jackets were merged and worn layered. Gentleman's pyjamas also came in puffer-velvet.
Kolor: Designer Junichi Abe's mash-up aesthetic felt less precise and more dishevelled this season. In a palette of sober hues and lots of plaid, softly tailored jackets and trenches appeared crumpled. These were teamed with heavy wool trousers either slouchy and wide leg or cuffed at the bottom. Another standout included a tweed blazer with leather lapels and patches of fur sprouting out from pockets.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kolor: Designer Junichi Abe's mash-up aesthetic felt less precise and more dishevelled this season. In a palette of sober hues and lots of plaid, softly tailored jackets and trenches appeared crumpled. These were teamed with heavy wool trousers either slouchy and wide leg or cuffed at the bottom. Another standout included a tweed blazer with leather lapels and patches of fur sprouting out from pockets.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
