Mackintosh: For A/W 2017, Mackintosh added a new capsule collection to its expanding outerwear overture. Designed by Kiko Kostadinov and entitled ‘Mackintosh 0001’, ten unisex looks were presented, each tapping into the brands heritage, yet pushing it firmly into the future. A short lab-like coat came with shiny black tape running along its seams, while a classic mac came in a reversible version.
Ann Demeulemeester: Sébastien Meunier explored volume and layering for A/W 2017. In a collection presented almost entirely in Demeulemeester black, darkly textured coats contoured the body and were worn over fluid, wide leg trousers that hit the floor in puddles. Underneath shirts were worn long with cropped waistcoats, ruffled high neck collars and long lace ties hinted at the Victorian. Elsewhere military jackets appeared in velvet and oversized knitted jumpers came web-like, while floppy fedora hats were tipped with an array of feathers.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Lemaire: This is a label that consistently shows easy, smart clothes for all year, transeasonal dressing. And for A/W 2017, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran channelled a slightly tougher mood than in previous seasons; trousers were cropped and pressed sharp, paired with roomy box leather boots. Chinos in workwear cotton satin had buckles at the cuff and elegant double breasted jackets were dropped and worn with slim trousers reflecting a more youthful, nonchalant attitude.
Helbers: Paul Helber's looked to a self-portrait of a young boy painted by a 19th century French artist Émile Friant for inspiration this season. The handsome subject fuelled a wardrobe of softly tailored jackets, easy shirts, languid knitwear and fluid trousers. Highlights included a wool down coat that snugly hugged the wearer, a cardigan-like blazer and an expanded shoe collection that included bucked ankle boots and crepe sole suede creepers.
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Facetasm: Creative director Hiromichi Ochiai explored the relationship that his native Japan has with diversity, resulting in a collection full of chaotic sophistication. Free from a singular narrative, his A/W 2017 offering spliced together recognisable menswear classics; roomy bombers, military parkas and technical ski jackets were merged and worn layered. Gentleman's pyjamas also came in puffer-velvet.
Kolor: Designer Junichi Abe's mash-up aesthetic felt less precise and more dishevelled this season. In a palette of sober hues and lots of plaid, softly tailored jackets and trenches appeared crumpled. These were teamed with heavy wool trousers either slouchy and wide leg or cuffed at the bottom. Another standout included a tweed blazer with leather lapels and patches of fur sprouting out from pockets.
AMI: Designer Alexandre Mattiussi continued to build on his unique perspective on clothing for the real guy on the street. Wide-leg pants were teamed with tailored overcoats, tracksuit tops were worn under blazers and billowing zip-fronted shirts were tucked into high-waisted trousers. Highlights included a blown up check trenchcoat nonchalantly thrown over a white shirt and jeans, and a fuchsia pink roll neck popping out from under a flecked grey overcoat.
APC: This season APC celebrated its 30th anniversary by presenting a vast archive of colour coded garments in the basement of their Rue Royal store. Alongside the new A/W 2017 collection, reissued pieces were presented baring the first ever APC logo from 1987. Staying true to the brand's DNA, highlights included classic corduroys and jeans, relaxed-fit coats and workwear inspired jackets.
Icosae: The sibling duo behind the young French label rediscovered their sartorial muse, returning to a stronger, sharper silhouette for the coming season. Both studied Fine Arts at Ecole du Louvre, and claim that a major influence on their design work comes from their great-grandfather, who was an illustrious tailor in Britain. For A/W 2017, inspirations came from the grandeur of royalty, to the costumes of Ainu and African tribes. Tailoring was lean, pinched with silver rivets usually seen on denim. Fabrics included a liquid metal coated tweed and hand painted patchwork.
Loewe: Jonathan Anderson continued to surprise for A/W 2017 with an eclectic collection that focused on craftsmanship. A hand-knitted jumper was made up of what resembled sailor knots, while a blue shearling coat came with hand-sewn elbow patches. Anderson's sense of humour came through in series of desirable accessories: a brass trumpet earring, a pair of jumbo leather paper clips and a clutch bag made in the shape of a baguette.
Officine Générale: Designer Pierre Mahéo was contemplating what made up the quintessential French man's wardrobe this season. An elegantly cut camel coat and neat shearling bomber were teamed with crisp white jeans and grounded with robust brown suede boots. Elsewhere, a classic denim jacket with a frayed hem was worn under a navy suit, and a rosebud sweater was paired with military fatigue green trousers. Printed silk scarves were knotted at the neckline adding a touch of Left Bank flair.
Off-White: Models walked on a leaf covered catwalk to a spoken word soundtrack from John Berger's Ways of Seeing. A grey cotton drill jacket came with an electric blue fur collar and eye motif on its back, elsewhere gold leaf broaches were pinned to cardigans and coats. Wide leg trousers came in jumbo cord and denim, while black leather shoes stood out with white high contrast laces.
Y/Project: In a dingy Parisian nightclub Y/Project designer Glenn Martens made an impact with a collection that distorted familiar sartorial items through a play on proportion and materials. The arms of knitted jumpers and bombers jackets came with static frills running down the side, while jeans came with extended turn ups that stopped above the knee. Elsewhere, shirts came with oversized cuffs and suit jackets opened at the back.
Haider Ackermann: On a vast dimly lit runway, Haider Ackermann presented his unique and eclectic vision of menswear. Jackets were cinched at the waist and teamed with skinny, cropped trousers and cowboy-style ankle boots. Houndstooth merged into velvet in what resembled a cut and paste effect, while tartans were collaged together.
Pierre Hardy: The designer continued to explore shoe hybrids to startling effect this season. A classic loafer last merged with a Birkenstock-style sandal shape, while a sturdy Derby shoe was seamlessly moulded with a Monk style in two-tone leather and with a hand painted sole. Elsewhere Hardy's signature slip-on sneakers came in plush velvet and suede.
OAMC: After three seasons of presentations OAMC made its catwalk debut. Designer Luke Meier and co-founder Arnaud Faeh took this opportunity to showcase and push forward the brand's DNA. Jackets in technical fabrics were generously cut and cocooned the body, while tailored trousers in thick wool where cropped at the ankle and worn with chunky sole shoes. A key feature were long straps that hung loosely off coats and shirts.
Jeffrey Rüdes: Presenting in the Parisian apartment frequented by Coco Chanel before she took up home at the Ritz, Jeffrey Rudes continued to push his luxe LA rock and roll aesthetic. A neatly tailored three-quarter length jacket came in moss green, another in butter soft suede that could be belted tightly at the waist. Fluid shirts with wide stripes were left unbuttoned at the chest and tucked into slim tailored trousers, while pointy ankle boots were full of rock star swagger.
Julien David: This season designer Julien David took us on a mountain adventure in a collection that incorporated references to the great outdoors and hiking. Generously cut utility jackets came with multiple 3D pockets and webbing compartments, while cargo pants came with braces attached. A falling leaf camouflage print covered a matching shirt and shirts ensemble, and a windbreaker came in jumbo cord. Thick tread boots with laces and buckles completed the look.
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