Dissecting fashion history: ’Anatomy of a Collection’ at Musée Galliera
According to the French curator Olivier Saillard the history of contemporary fashion began in the 18th century, an idea that rings true in the context of his latest curatorial triumph at the Musée Galliera in Paris.
The new exhibition 'Anatomy of a Collection' takes over the hallowed halls of the 19th century palace, and proposes close to one hundred historical and contemporary garments from the museum’s own archives each chosen for it’s intrinsic human connection. Sound abstract? In fact, the concept is grounded in the resolute fact that these clothes were inextricably linked with a living person (famous or otherwise), with both garment and wearer affecting each other and contributing to a wider cultural dialogue of dress.
From ornate imperial court dress to mid-century haute couture and recent runway pieces, the exhibition delves deep into both the provenance and mythology of clothes – considering them as relics linked with public and personal memories, celebrating their place on the stage, within ceremony, and for everyday life.
Wandering through the rouge-tinted salons amongst the black-framed vitrines, one may chance upon the blue velvet frock coat of a four-year old Napoleon or the spectacular peacock feathered muff of his niece Princess Mathilde, before discovering the rough, colourful linen uniforms of peasants from the 1900s.
Around the corner, an anteroom is resplendent with Paul Poiret designs from the wardrobes of Sarah Bernhardt and creations for the French cabaret star Mistinguett (her knit cat-suits had toes), and yet another room displays the prized pieces of modern fashion muses like Carla Sozzani (to her friend Azzedine Alaia) and Michèle Lamy (to her husband Rick Owens).
'The point of this exhibition is to reveal the intimate relationship between a garment and the person who wore it,' Saillard explains. 'Whether it is illustrious, notorious, celebrated or anonymous, the body modifies each chosen garment – it adds soul and sensitivity to a composition of textiles. It is this autobiographical reading that we wanted to touch upon in this exhibition. From Marie Antoinette to Sarah Bernhardt, the Duchess of Windsor and Tilda Swinton, the clothes in this show illustrate a portrait of those who have worn them.'
INFORMATION
’Anatomy of A Collection’ runs from May 14 - October 23 at the Musée Galliera, Paris. For more information, visit the website
Photography: © Eric Poitevin, 2016
ADDRESS
10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, Rue de Galliera
75016 Paris, France
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Ama Bar, in Vancouver, is sexy and a little disorienting
Ama Bar features ‘Blade Runner 2049’-inspired interiors by &Daughters
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Kembra Pfahler revisits ‘The Manual of Action’ for CIRCA
Artist Kembra Pfahler will lead a series of classes in person and online, with a short film streamed from Piccadilly Circus in London, as well as in Berlin, Milan and Seoul, over three months until 30 June 2024
By Zoe Whitfield Published
-
Monospinal is a Japanese gaming company’s HQ inspired by its product’s world
A Japanese design studio fulfils its quest to take Monospinal, the Tokyo HQ of a video game developer, to the next level
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Josèfa Ntjam reveals mythical sculptures for her LVMH Métiers d’Art artist residency
LVMH Métiers d’Art presents ‘Une cosmogonie d’océans’, celebrating Josèfa Ntjam’s artistic residence
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Damien Hirst takes over Château La Coste
Damien Hirst’s ‘The Light That Shines’ at Château La Coste includes new and existing work, and takes over the entire 500-acre estate in Provence
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Ludovic Nkoth’s vibrant paintings reflect on migration
Cameroon-born, New York-based Ludovic Nkoth uses acrylic paint to strike a balance between abstraction and figuration
By Ugonna-Ora Owoh Published
-
Heads up: art exhibitions to see in January 2024
Start the year right with the Wallpaper* pick of art exhibitions to see in January 2024
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Tia-Thuy Nguyen encases Chateau La Coste oak tree in tonne of stainless steel strips
Tia-Thuy Nguyen’s ‘Flower of Life’ lives in the grounds of sculpture park and organic winery Château La Coste in France
By Harriet Quick Published
-
Paris Photo 2023: Eva Nielsen puts our impact on the Camargue in dynamic focus
At Paris Photo 2023, ‘Insolare’ by Eva Nielsen, in collaboration with BMW Art Makers, is a compelling exploration of human impact on the landscape
By Sophie Gladstone Published
-
The rich, creative life of Moomins creator Tove Jansson
Finnish artist and Moomins creator Tove Jansson was free, independent and nonconformist, as a new Paris exhibition delving into her life and work reveals
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Mark Rothko retrospective to open at Fondation Louis Vuitton in October 2023
The major Mark Rothko exhibition will bring 115 works to Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris
By Hannah Silver Published