Mare un rol’s
Pieces by Harris Elliott and his high fashion advocate, Paul Smith, for the Wallpaper* Show Time shoot
Mare un rol's
Tell us about the past year, things have been moving very quickly.
Yes, the recent years have been very intense. When we look back and remember how determined we were to reach our goals, then it makes more sense that we actually did! It wasn't easy. It's always been very important for us to create designs inspire. Since 2005 we started taking part in international fashion events and competitions and in addition, we started collaborating with visual artists and directors to create works which presented fashion the way we felt it.
Whilst there's definitely an ' out- there' edge to your shows, there is a consistent dedication to wearable shapes and decadent fabrics.Is theatre important to your work?
Theatre as form of art is very significant and very inspiring. The various forms of theatre and costume design have led us to look beyond fashion and trends. Theatre is not just an unpractical, fictional set-up with pompous elements, but a game of finding the perfect compositions for telling a story. It uses story line, space, stage design, characters, lights and audio etc. in order to create a spectacle – that said, theatre definitely does not dictate our work. Our shows may seem avant garde, but in reality it's about wearable fashion.
Describe your design process, is it complex and intricate or more impulsive?
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It's difficult to describe the process of our work. It's more impulsive. The first thing is to define the right message we want to develop with our collection. As we are two designers working together, it's two views we have to deal with - we are two very different people. One is more constructive and the other one more sensitive and sensual. The process of our work is very self-critical. It's very important to us to analyse all our ideas in order to distill the best of what we create.
Who would you cite as your key influences in the world of fashion?
The many key influences come from films, music, art and fashion. The fashion world influence comes from those fashion designers who create fashion that is beyond commercial dictums. These designers offer their own view on fashion design, where the feeling, aura, messages, visual compositions come from their personal views and interpretations. We've taken inspiration from multiple artists of various disciplines however - for example, Michael Jackson, Roman Polanski films and Coco Rosie have all had a big impact on us.
Where does the inspiration for your avant-garde, highly structural pieces come from?
Inspiration can come from things, which cannot be described - for example one of our collections is inspired by actual nightmares we both experienced, and another one found inspiration from the minutiae of daily life. We pick elements that draw our 100% attention to them. For us it is very important that each detail has a purpose and a meaning and that our clothes tell their own story and live their own lives.
Who would you say have been your most strident supporters?
Definitely, Diane Pernet. She found us in Riga. She's a wonderful person we've been thrilled to meet. We would also like to mention all the jury members of the 24th Hyeres Festival - who understood and appreciated our work and ideas.
H Jacket from H by Harris
Q1 Skin from H by Harris
Q4 Tote from H by Harris
Q3 Rucksack from H by Harris
Mark Fast coupes up with Angela Missoni for the Wallpaper* shoot
Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010
Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010
Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010
Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010
James Long, Spring Summer 2010
James Long, Spring Summer 2010
James Long, Spring Summer 2010
James Long, Spring Summer 2010
James Long, Spring Summer 2010
A blouse by Veryta comes combined with pieces from Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent
Veryta, Spring Summer 2010
Veryta, Spring Summer 2010
Veryta, Spring Summer 2010
Veryta, Spring Summer 2010
Veryta, Spring Summer 2010
A distinctive, cherry-inspired headpiece from milliner Piers Atkinson coupled with a Pringle of Scotland dress for the Wallpaper* shoot
Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010
Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010
Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010
Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010
Mary Katrantzou, as chosen by Frida Giannini of Gucci for Wallpaper*
Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010
Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010
Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010
Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010
Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010
A Christopher Shannon t-shirt and trousers-combo with pieces by Italo Zuchelli at Calvin Klein
Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010
Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010
Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010
Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010
Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010
A multi-chromatic shirt and short selection by Jsen Wintle combined with a coat from his advocate, Christopher Bailey of Burberry
Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010
Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010
Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010
Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010
Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010
A bewigged Mare un Rol's model for the Wallpaper* January issue shoot
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's
A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house,
Catface mask by Maiko Takeda
Rose headpiece by Maiko Takeda
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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