The trend for in-your-face bras and OTT branding has given simple nude underwear a rather bad rep of late. However, just as outerwear has embraced a more minimalist approach, lingerie has also undergone a similar undressing. Superfluous frills, trims, bows and lace have been shunned by a new breed of contemporary labels, whose combined focus lies in paring-back the intimates market.

After cutting her teeth at Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez in New York, Jo Rossell founded her London-based line in 2015 with the intention of producing modern, underwire-free cotton and silk underwear. Her approach is dominated by clever panelling for a contoured fit, rather than wires and synthetic elastane. ‘The natural stretch cotton I use is more commonly used in ready-to-wear than lingerie,’ she explains. ‘Combined with a geometric cut and construction, this offers the same amount of support as a conventional underwire bra, giving the wearer a sense of freedom.’

Also following suit is fellow London label Marieyat, which uses a nostalgic rib to fashion its cool cut-out separates, and Danish brand Baserange, which similarly champion a sporty spin on barely-there bras and briefs.

As originally featured in the November 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*212)