Back in 1989, Issey Miyake began making revolutionary, lightweight, wrinkle-free pleated fabrics by feeding cut and sewn designs through a heat press. The innovative Japanese brand’s fabric manipulations continue to inspire, forming a strong presence on this season’s catwalks. At Jil Sander, the precise, narrow pleats of shirt-dresses were softened by voluminous cocoon sleeves, while at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson finished pleated dresses in sandy hues with shawl-fringed graphic ruffles, and Consuelo Castiglioni’s final show for Marni updated chiton-like shapes with colour-blocked pastels and asymmetric sleeves. Meanwhile, celebrating its own wrinkle-free heritage, Issey Miyake’s Yoshiyuki Miyamae created accordion-pleated jackets, cut and pasted to form sculpted concentric shapes.

As originally featured in the March 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*216)