Into the fold: this season, pleats look neat at our north London bolthole

Model in outfit by Marni
Designers showed a predilection for pleats, updating them with voluminous silhouettes. Left, dress, £1,980; belt, £150; shoes, £480, all by Jil Sander. Right, top, £1,250; skirt, £660, both by Marni. Fashion: Lune Kuipers
(Image credit: Pelle Crépin)

Back in 1989, Issey Miyake began making revolutionary, lightweight, wrinkle-free pleated fabrics by feeding cut and sewn designs through a heat press. The innovative Japanese brand's fabric manipulations continue to inspire, forming a strong presence on this season's catwalks. At Jil Sander, the precise, narrow pleats of shirt-dresses were softened by voluminous cocoon sleeves, while at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson finished pleated dresses in sandy hues with shawl-fringed graphic ruffles, and Consuelo Castiglioni's final show for Marni updated chiton-like shapes with colour-blocked pastels and asymmetric sleeves. Meanwhile, celebrating its own wrinkle-free heritage, Issey Miyake's Yoshiyuki Miyamae created accordion-pleated jackets, cut and pasted to form sculpted concentric shapes.

As originally featured in the March 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*216)

Left, jacket, by Issey Miyake and Right, dress and shoes, both by Loewe

Left, jacket, £1,620, by Issey Miyake. Right, dress, £1,675; shoes, £695, both by Loewe. 'PK80' daybed in walnut leather, €15,584, by Poul Kjærholm, for Fritz Hansen

(Image credit: Pelle Crépin)

The newspaper section of our March issue was shot at the Uphill House, designed by Robert Dye Architects. See more of the house here