Mood board: In the field of fashion consumption, we’re being urged to consider our wardrobe choices with even more environmentally sensitivity. Brands that have been cultivating a specific vision for decades, eluding trends and passing tastes, have particular provenance. Junya Watanabe – tailoring’s leading punk – is renowned for his spliced and deconstructed take on classic silhouettes like leather jackets and suiting, taking for S/S 2020, the beige trench coat, and turning it into something new, like a voluminous skirt a ball gown, or razor sharp cape, or splicing its buckled and buttoned boob tube form onto a white shirt. Watanabe paired these astonishingly constructed garments with flashes of neon, from skinny cap-sleeve t-shirts to sporty leggings. He silhouettes had a relaxed 1980s élan.
Team work: Watanabe collaborated with Spanish graffiti artist Bicicleta Sem Freio and Brazilian design collective Bicicleta Sem Freio on a series of graphic, prismatic prints which featured on leggings and technical skins.
Finishing touches: Alongside spiked chokers, models sported chunky pearl necklaces. Ladylike yes, but these accessories also had a punky DIY charm, with pearl beads appearing as if they’d been wrapped in pieces of colourful foil. §
