Simone Rocha S/S 2018
Scene setting: From Southwark Cathedral to Lancaster House, Simone Rocha has often staged her catwalk shows in storied locations. For S/S 2018, the designer looked to the law inns around Temple, where the grand Elizabethan interiors of Middle Temple Hall formed the backdrop to her latest outing, complete with oak panelling, coats of arms, marble busts and an oak double-hammer beam roof.
Mood board: The designer is known for her romantic and Victoriana inspired collections, which feature gauzy fabrics, lace, bow-details and ruffles, and Perspex-detailed accessories. For S/S 2018, she was inspired by the figurative paintings of Belgian artist and filmmaker Michaël Borremans, whose portraits evoke 18th-century artworks. The ruffled smocks, ties and button up details seen in his paintings were reflected in frilled and ruched silk dresses. Oversized broderie-anglaise smocks and net petticoats nodded to Victorian nightwear, while silk or see-through trench coats and blazers tightened diaphanous silhouettes at the waist. Floral details, seen in sparkling sequinned petals or hand-painted orange flowers denoted a flouncy femininity, one subverted by the unnerving details of red dolls – holding hands in chains – and stitched in glittery thread into the cascading frills of dresses.
Finishing touches: In recent seasons Rocha’s earrings, often imagined as trailing beaded designs, have become eagerly sought-after accessories. For S/S 2018, the designer amped up her offering, and models sported piled up rhinestone hair clips and dazzling drop earrings. A nod to the doll details in her ready-to-wear, crimson beaded earrings dangled from the ears and neck and beaded bows hung from gauzy ruffle detail dresses. Sinister or saccharine? Spots of blood or spots of jam? This ambiguity emphasised the uneasy elegance of the collection.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Remembering Christopher Charles Benninger (1942-2024)
Architect Christopher Charles Benninger has died in Pune, India, at the age of 82; we honour and reflect on his passing
By Aastha D Published
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collection
Chanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Sarah Solis’ first furniture collection is an homage to art deco
‘Is it weird to call furniture sexy?’ Los Angeles-based designer Sarah Solis discusses her debut furniture line and new brand and store, Galerie Solis
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know now
Fashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressing
London Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated