Mood board: Regimented and yet deeply sporty too, Giambattista Valli delivered his most casual collection yet for Moncler Gamme Rouge. Of course there were still remnants of Valli’s couture sensibilities wafting off the mini lace dresses and embroidered crusted tunic tops, but the ornamentation was definitely toned down this season as Valli focused on crisp clean sportswear, foil running shorts, canvas printed pants and puffer sleeping tarps held on by red, white and blue grosgrain shoulder straps that trailed off the model’s backs like the train of a great gown.
Best in show: Valli’s best work was on outerwear, where he used couture, cocoon-like shapes on hooded coats that were blocked in big vertical sheets of red, silver and navy blue. Also noteworthy were the trapeze-shaped white coats, covered in a layer of white beaded embroidery.
Finishing touches: The crispness of uniform dressing came to a head with bandleader caps sporting silver metallic visors. But the shoes were super slacker, including a set of pool slides made from shiny silver and fashion’s ubiquitous Stan Smith trainer made Moncler by being dipped entirely in a color block formation of blue, red and white.