Jason Wu S/S 2017

Mood board: Jason Wu found inspiration in the tension between the artificial and the natural in the artwork of Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone, whose ‘Seven Magic Mountains’ installation in the desert south of Las Vegas places stacked, technicolored boulders against the earthtones. Wu’s collaboration with Woolmark dismissed the notion that the material is only desirable for the cooler seasons with his featherweight wool pieces.

Finishing touches: Vividly hued floral appliqués were hand-embroidered onto dresses and gowns, creating a distinct contrast between them and the more subtle, neutral tones. Wu used copper metal threads to create a cinched waist on a pink taffeta dress, and delicate, sheer lace proved that there’s nothing to hide in a series of dresses.

Best in show: The electric floral motifs proved that Wu is indeed adept at couture-like construction, and they energised the neutral-coloured gowns, shirts and dresses they were used on. Whimsical, vibrant and playful, they added a contemporary touch to classic silhouettes.