Mood board: Inside an industrial warehouse in Paris' 11th arrondissement, the piercing strings of quartet Balanescu serenaded a particularly high octane offering from Dries Van Noten. Infatuated by a richness of colour, print, fabrication and embellishment – and often all in the one outfit – the show's patterned looks and lively soundtrack powerfully reverberated off each other. But rather than the bohemian sensibility of season’s past, this more eclectic collection was steered towards a retro flavour courtesy of Forties bra tops, full skirts, swing coats, sharp shoulders and the flamboyant colour pairing of teal with shocking pink, mauve and camel.
Best in show: As exuberant as the collection was in its evening volumes and strict tailoring – cut from flashy bi-hued satins, brocades and jacquards – it was the show's softer, embroidered silk shirts and pleated, blue denim or patterned jeans that posed an entirely new causal equation for next summer.
Finishing touches: The show's tattoo-like body suits were one thing, but the stylists in the room certainly perked up at the sight of Van Noten’s illustrated body-art gloves, while the models’ wedged platforms in their richly hued silks only heightened the show's dramatic effect.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The best New York rooftop bars that go above and beyondFrom the West Side to Williamsburg, these are the very best watering holes for good booze, stylish patios and even better views
-
Swiss unveils new long-haul cabins, including a superior double bed suiteFour redesigned cabins, five types of business seats, and two exclusive first-class suites. Here’s what Swiss is betting on for its next-generation fleet
-
Remembering Robert Wilson, master of spectacle and light (1941-2025)American theatre set creator and former Wallpaper* guest editor, Robert Wilson has died, aged 83. We look back at his remarkable life and works
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
