Mood board: Inside an industrial warehouse in Paris’ 11th arrondissement, the piercing strings of quartet Balanescu serenaded a particularly high octane offering from Dries Van Noten. Infatuated by a richness of colour, print, fabrication and embellishment – and often all in the one outfit – the show’s patterned looks and lively soundtrack powerfully reverberated off each other. But rather than the bohemian sensibility of season’s past, this more eclectic collection was steered towards a retro flavour courtesy of Forties bra tops, full skirts, swing coats, sharp shoulders and the flamboyant colour pairing of teal with shocking pink, mauve and camel.
Best in show: As exuberant as the collection was in its evening volumes and strict tailoring – cut from flashy bi-hued satins, brocades and jacquards – it was the show’s softer, embroidered silk shirts and pleated, blue denim or patterned jeans that posed an entirely new causal equation for next summer.
Finishing touches: The show’s tattoo-like body suits were one thing, but the stylists in the room certainly perked up at the sight of Van Noten’s illustrated body-art gloves, while the models’ wedged platforms in their richly hued silks only heightened the show’s dramatic effect.
