Mary Katrantzou S/S 2016

Mood board: Mary Katrantzou may have cited cosmology as her launching pad this season, but as the glitter settled what shone through was her exploration of Balkan dress with great folklore effect.

Best in show: With patchwork floral prints interspersed between otherwise microscopically encrusted panels, this collection presented a much softer fluidity than we have seen from Katrantzou prior. Until now her designs have needed lining at the very least to hold up the weight of their encrusting. However, that said, this season it was the collection’s chaos theory, scaly iridescent dresses, waistcoat-cum-frocks and sparkling diagonal striped looks that got our cosmic hearts racing. 

Finishing touches: The show’s opening exits were paired with flecked wool rib tights, which nicely dialled down the glitz, while around the neck, a single black ribbon chocker tapped back into traditional Romanian dress. On foot, Mary Katrantzou /Gianvito Rossi shoes were either Perspex heeled sandals or witchy, buckled booties.