Celine A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s

Scene setting: An enormous mechanical version of the Celine Triomphe logo – first used by the Parisian maison in 1973 in an ode to the Arc de Triomphe, and reintroduced by Hedi Slimane – stood at the head of the runway at Les Invalides. Since taking the helm of the house, Slimane has been bringing a rock and roll rebellion to the bourgeois codes associated with the maison. So, as the show began, the huge illuminated logo began rotating to an original soundtrack devised by French-born guitarist and songwriter Sofia Bolt, and the first model appeared to slide fluidly onto the stage via a horizontal moving walkway.
Mood board: This was a collection of Slimane signatures. Women, part Right Bank bourgeoise, part LA cool girl, clad in sixties and seventies-centric fur coats, culottes, ruffled blouses, sparkly dresses and platforms. Men sucked into phenomenally skinny cords and sporting brocade officer coats, leather jackets and Cuban heel boots. Slimane has particularly excelled in red-carpet style (Brie Larson, Charlize Theron and Lupita Nyong'o) all recently sporting sparkling Celine designs, and a series of dresses were particularly powerful, including a high necked dress with swirling beaded foliage and another in light red hues, densely beaded and with a huge pussy bow blouse.
Team work: Never shy of an artist collaboration, Slimane teamed up with the Fondation César on a series of gold vermeil jewellery pieces, which nodded to his 1959 ‘Direct Compressions,’ a series of small scale sculptures initially made from soldered metal, piping and license plates, which evolved into his larger, more idiosyncratic sculptures formed from car parts. These jewellery pieces, featuring a retractable hook, have also been conceived as small sculptures, and the objet will be presented in a pine box, stamped with César’s signature.
Celine A/W 2020
Celine A/W 2020
Celine A/W 2020
Celine A/W 2020
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
In Copenhagen, Charlotte Taylor gave us a glimpse into the mess of real life
At 3 Days of Design, Charlotte Taylor staged ‘Home from Home’, a group exhibition in collaboration with Noura Residency, showcasing the chaos of the everyday, from unmade beds to breakfast leftovers
-
Stephen Burks and Malika Leiper transform everyday mats into sculptural seating in Senegal
Using woven plastic mats and zip ties, the New York designers explore local vernacular and creative adaptation at the Albers Foundation’s Thread residency
-
This designer is revitalising the lost folk tradition of Ukraine’s painted cottages
Through gleaming hammered-steel panels, Victoria Yakusha is opening a dialogue about ancestral memory, craft and womanhood
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear season
Between the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne Studios
Heralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
-
‘I’m surprised that I got this far’: Rick Owens on his bombastic Paris retrospective, ‘Temple of Love’
The Dark Prince of Fashion sits down with Wallpaper* to discuss legacy, love, and growing old in Paris as a display at the Palais Galliera tells the story of his subversive career
-
The standout shows of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Hermès to Craig Green
Wallpaper* picks the very best of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Véronique Nichanian’s portrait of summer in the city for Hermès to Craig Green’s return to the Paris runway
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* team
From 24-29 June, Paris Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the French capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026
As Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026 begins in Florence, the Wallpaper* style team select the moments they will be looking out for – from Jonathan Anderson’s anticipated Dior debut to outings from Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Prada
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closet
Vetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer