Marni A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
Scene setting: Risso’s weird and wonderful narrative knows no bounds. For A/W 2020, guests entered an industrial space through a tent-like tunnel, before emerging into a pinkish hued green house, like you’d imagine on in a lunar space station or as a weird enclave on a meditative retreat. Risso wasn’t confined by a solid definition. ‘Are we in a caged world trying to get out,’ or ‘are we trying to escape into a magic, techno psychedelic world escape,’ he mused backstage, clad in striped trousers and a long sleeved t-shirt, after removing the rabbit head he’d worn down the runway. His down-the-rabbit-hole designs referenced ‘beauty in leftovers’, reflected in the soft seating of the show, which was formed from piles of internal sponge from old sofas.
Mood board: Risso was preoccupied with finding new beauty from scraps, taking colourful fragments of leathers and tapestries, and patchworking them into coats and symmetric dresses tied with bows. He described his pieces as ‘collaged puzzles of remnants,’ which leftover shreds from ready-to-wear, being made into slouchy oversized bags. Elsewhere, chunky knitwear was colour blocked and accented with XL running stitch while velvet overcoats were printed with what resembled metallic space dust. In a beguiling blend of old and new, models sported their cut and paste pieces sporting futuristic glittering make up, sprinkled across their face and hair. Risso described them as ‘wild Alice in Wonderlands.’
Finishing touches: Cutouts on patchwork pieces (also noted on the Tod’s and Versace catwalks) were framed by pieces of metal in gold and silver, like hand-honed hardware. ‘We made the structures in clay in the studio then transformed them into metal,’ Risso explained. ‘Behind each object, there’s a hand.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
John Cage’s ‘now moments’ inspire Lismore Castle Arts’ group show
Lismore Castle Arts’ ‘Each now, is the time, the space’ takes its title from John Cage, and sees four artists embrace the moment through sculpture and found objects
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
Architects collaborate on geometric extension to radically re-shape a London house
Mediterranean influences, earthy tones and quirky angles abound in this geometric extension and the soaring living spaces of this reconfigured Victorian townhouse
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘What a Fantastic Machine’: new film explores the camera, pop culture and human behaviour
Maximilien Van Aertryck and Axel Danielson’s new film, ‘And the King Said, What a Fantastic Machine’, dissects the role of the camera in popular culture
By Zoe Whitfield Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion week
Take an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated