Scene setting: For A/W 2019, Saint Laurent erected a huge silver box wrapped in mirror panelling, directly opposite the Eiffel Tower in Paris’ historic Place du Trocadero. As guests climbed the staircase into the space, the Eiffel Tower was reflected in a graphic, distorted image across the façade’s reflective panes. On arrival, guests sat on tiered seating running the length of one wall. As the show began, a mirror, behind the catwalk, and facing the audience, vanished to reveal lengths of vertically lined lightbulbs, which frenetically pulsated and twinkled throughout.
Mood board: In true Saint Laurent style, the aesthetic was glamorous rock ’n’ roll, the hemlines short and the spiky heels vertiginous. A series of opening looks introduced a new powerful silhouette for the house, with overcoats featuring huge square shoulders that nodded to the aesthetic of Claude Montana (whose legacy has just been reenergised by Gareth Pugh and vintage clothing specialist Byronesque). Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Le Smoking was seen in a white tuxedo suit paired with a black cummerbund, sequined asymmetric mini dresses had voluminous bow details, pencil skirts were trimmed with ostrich feather and sheer gowns with flamenco frills. Daring, decadent and va va voom.
Finishing touches: For the show’s finale, models disappeared behind the pane of glass, which framed the long catwalk. Male and female models were illuminated by ultraviolet light, and their final looks – like stilettos, feathered mini dresses, striped blazers and fur coats were illuminated in neon hues accordingly. §
