Scene setting: For A/W 2019, Saint Laurent erected a huge silver box wrapped in mirror panelling, directly opposite the Eiffel Tower in Paris’ historic Place du Trocadero. As guests climbed the staircase into the space, the Eiffel Tower was reflected in a graphic, distorted image across the façade’s reflective panes. On arrival, guests sat on tiered seating running the length of one wall. As the show began, a mirror, behind the catwalk, and facing the audience, vanished to reveal lengths of vertically lined lightbulbs, which frenetically pulsated and twinkled throughout.
Mood board: In true Saint Laurent style, the aesthetic was glamorous rock ’n’ roll, the hemlines short and the spiky heels vertiginous. A series of opening looks introduced a new powerful silhouette for the house, with overcoats featuring huge square shoulders that nodded to the aesthetic of Claude Montana (whose legacy has just been reenergised by Gareth Pugh and vintage clothing specialist Byronesque). Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Le Smoking was seen in a white tuxedo suit paired with a black cummerbund, sequined asymmetric mini dresses had voluminous bow details, pencil skirts were trimmed with ostrich feather and sheer gowns with flamenco frills. Daring, decadent and va va voom.
Finishing touches: For the show’s finale, models disappeared behind the pane of glass, which framed the long catwalk. Male and female models were illuminated by ultraviolet light, and their final looks – like stilettos, feathered mini dresses, striped blazers and fur coats were illuminated in neon hues accordingly.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
-
Discover a futuristic bar in Shanghai with mad-scientist energyPenicillin opens in Shanghai with a clinical steel and concrete design by LC Studio alongside its trailblazing, sustainable cocktails
-
This cardboard and rope chair seeks to redemocratise design with ‘joyful frugality’Wallpaper* speaks to architect Nipun Prabhakar of Dhammada Collective about the studio’s latest project, ‘Paper Tube, an open-source chair made from discarded cardboard tubes and rope
-
The Sinclair name is back, attached to a pocket-sized games console with an educational edgeGrant Sinclair’s name is freighted with early computing history. Wallpaper* tapped up the British inventor to find out more about his new GamerCard console and other innovation
-
Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and futureThe Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne StudiosHeralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
-
‘I’m surprised that I got this far’: Rick Owens on his bombastic Paris retrospective, ‘Temple of Love’The Dark Prince of Fashion sits down with Wallpaper* to discuss legacy, love, and growing old in Paris as a display at the Palais Galliera tells the story of his subversive career
-
The standout shows of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Hermès to Craig GreenWallpaper* picks the very best of Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Véronique Nichanian’s portrait of summer in the city for Hermès to Craig Green’s return to the Paris runway
-
Saint Laurent transports from ‘Paris to Fire Island’ for escapist S/S 2026 menswear collectionA mood of ease and escapism infused Anthony Vaccarello’s latest men’s collection for Saint Laurent, shown in Paris on Tuesday afternoon, which looked towards Fire Island and the queer artists that used it as a haven in the 1970s
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 24-29 June, Paris Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the French capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
