Scene setting: For A/W 2019, Saint Laurent erected a huge silver box wrapped in mirror panelling, directly opposite the Eiffel Tower in Paris’ historic Place du Trocadero. As guests climbed the staircase into the space, the Eiffel Tower was reflected in a graphic, distorted image across the façade’s reflective panes. On arrival, guests sat on tiered seating running the length of one wall. As the show began, a mirror, behind the catwalk, and facing the audience, vanished to reveal lengths of vertically lined lightbulbs, which frenetically pulsated and twinkled throughout.
Mood board: In true Saint Laurent style, the aesthetic was glamorous rock ’n’ roll, the hemlines short and the spiky heels vertiginous. A series of opening looks introduced a new powerful silhouette for the house, with overcoats featuring huge square shoulders that nodded to the aesthetic of Claude Montana (whose legacy has just been reenergised by Gareth Pugh and vintage clothing specialist Byronesque). Yves Saint Laurent’s classic Le Smoking was seen in a white tuxedo suit paired with a black cummerbund, sequined asymmetric mini dresses had voluminous bow details, pencil skirts were trimmed with ostrich feather and sheer gowns with flamenco frills. Daring, decadent and va va voom.
Finishing touches: For the show’s finale, models disappeared behind the pane of glass, which framed the long catwalk. Male and female models were illuminated by ultraviolet light, and their final looks – like stilettos, feathered mini dresses, striped blazers and fur coats were illuminated in neon hues accordingly.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
Saint Laurent A/W 2019.
-
Meet the landscape studio reviving the eco-brutalist Barbican ConservatoryLondon-based Harris Bugg Studio is working on refreshing the Barbican Conservatory as part of the brutalist icon's ongoing renewal; we meet the landscape designers to find out more
-
‘A Single Man’ is now a ballet – we go behind the designAs ‘A Single Man’ is presented by The Royal Ballet and Factory International in London, here’s how its set designer brought protagonist George’s inner and outer worlds to life on stage
-
Pat McGrath sets a new standard for luxury in beauty with La Beauté Louis VuittonThe fashion house has launched its long-awaited debut beauty line, spearheaded by legendary make-up artist Pat McGrath
-
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, A/W 2025’s best menswear captures a ‘menacing elegance’‘A menacing, seductive elegance,’ is how Anthony Vaccarello described his A/W 2025 menswear collection for Saint Laurent, capturing a mood that ran through the season. Here, as seen in Wallpaper’s September 2025 cover shoot and film, a series of looks that invite a sense of risk when dressing for the months ahead
-
How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
-
Power suits, thigh-high boots, dangerous glamour: these looks capture A/W 2025’s defining trendsFrom riffs on the working uniform to a mood of dangerous glamour, the A/W 2025 collections encapsulated in 12 distinctive looks and accessories
-
Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and futureThe Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne StudiosHeralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
-
‘I’m surprised that I got this far’: Rick Owens on his bombastic Paris retrospective, ‘Temple of Love’The Dark Prince of Fashion sits down with Wallpaper* to discuss legacy, love, and growing old in Paris as a display at the Palais Galliera tells the story of his subversive career
