Scene setting: Ever since Clare Waight Keller took the reins of Givenchy, the Parisian brand's shows have been taking place at the very urban setting of the Palais de Justice. No more. Sunday’s show rendezvous took place at the Jardin des Plantes, a botanical garden of sorts on the Rive Gauche with a little building inside... Which is where we all expected to be seating. This made the set design even more of a surprise: it was a long tent (‘the longest I've ever seen’, as per witness reports), completely blackened except for its roof, a transparent affair through which guests could see the Jardin's trimmed trees swaying wildly to the evening's stormy winds.
Moodboard: The theme? ‘Winter's Eden', said the designer's show notes. And so it transpired. Clare Waight Keller has been asking herself the most primal question anyone in fashion can ever come up with: why do we dress ourselves? If you are somewhat religious, the answer might have something to do with Adam, Eve and the Garden of Eden. And voila, you've got this collection's inspiration. It was all there, from the flowers, trees and blooming colours of an exotic garden – vibrant pinks, grass greens, saturated sky blues, not to forget the hundreds of sparkling crystals mimicking dew drops – to the slithery temptation of the snake... in the shape of accessories.
Best in show: The execution, though, was far from literal. It's not for nothing that this has been dubbed the season of the suit: nothing in the way of slouchy ensembles or boho dresses here. Quite the opposite, it was all about structure. Strong shoulders, defined waistlines and power trousers in classic patterns were everywhere. As for dresses, they came in micro-pleated poly silk and thick crepe. Menswear, which was first shown in January in a very intimate show, made its appearance once again, all 1970's-infused flared trousers suits in unexpected colours including cherry and turquoise. Once again, those were among the audience's favourites, and heralded a truly new era of masculine elegance. In that way, Clare Waight Keller's answer to ‘why do we dress ourselves' was crystal clear.
Givenchy A/W 2019.
Givenchy A/W 2019
Givenchy A/W 2019.
Givenchy A/W 2019.
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The future of Copenhagen Fashion Week? Look towards the students of SAFDTaught by designer Anne Sofie Madsen, the tightly knit students of the Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design (SAFD) are adding a new jolt of energy to the city’s manicured fashion scene. Dal Chodha heads to Copenhagen to meet its rising stars
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Meet Goodesign, the modular furniture studio with big dreamsWallpaper* speaks to Emmanuel Popoteur, the self-taught designer behind New York’s Goodesign, a studio creating intuitive, adaptable furniture for modern living
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Could reimagining play reshape childhood? 21st Europe argues for playgrounds as infrastructureA new blueprint by think tank 21st Europe and Spacon calls for playgrounds to be treated as vital civic infrastructure – on par with museums, stations and energy grids
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How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
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Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and futureThe Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
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Art meets perfume in cross-disciplinary fragrance series Nez 1+1Talents from film and fragrance come together to create Ansongo, the latest scent resulting from a creative matchmaking project by perfume revue Nez
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
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‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne StudiosHeralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
