Scene setting: The Sacai fashion show at number 11, rue Béranger took place in what appeared to be an abandoned six-storey car park in the middle of Le Marais, but this 1970s-designed building used to be the headquarters of Libération, one of France’s leading left-wing newspapers. It was only vacated three years ago, due to the damaging cocktail of spiralling rents and dwindling print sales. While the building remained unoccupied some newspaper vestiges still remained, including some colourful Noughties Macs. The first to trespass into this previously unchartered territory was Dries Van Noten who showed his menswear collection there a couple of seasons ago, and since then it has become more of a staple during Paris Fashion Week. And for a good reason: the light is bountiful and guests are treated to one of the most privileged views of Paris.
Best in show: Casual or formal? The Sacai woman just doesn’t answer to that question. Instead, she combines both... at the same time. Designer Chitose Abe has always explored the idea of hybrid dressing, but this time it was ramped up to another level – blazers turned into denim jackets, coats into puffas and, of course, trousers into her signature pleated skirts. There was a prominent college theme, visible in horizontal burgundy and navy blue stripes and in handmade knits featuring intarsia coats of arms, the most exciting – and newest – pieces. Elsewhere, there were bicolour pieces (a recurring trend this season) in the shape of trenchcoats merged with dresses. It will interesting to see how Chitose Abe translates the most intricate pieces in the commercial collection.
Finishing touches: It appears zebra and leopard worn together are back in fashion... but only if decorating a pair of mismatched shoes: ankle boots, pumps, and chelsea booties in animal-printed calf hair accessorised most of the looks. But nothing caught our attention as much as the electric blue and orange rectangular bags sporting the logo of the legendary Shibuya vinyl store, Manhattan Records. The kind of delicious oddity which the fashion-savvy fans of Sacai will adore.
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Aesop’s Queer Library bookmarks brilliant literature, no purchase requiredReturning to London’s Soho, 3-6 July 2025, the Queer Library pop-up offers complimentary books by LGBTQIA+ authors and allies
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Wangechi Mutu's powerful sculptures take over the palatial interiors of Rome's Galleria BorgheseThe Kenyan-born artist is the first living woman to have a solo exhibition at the villa
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Il Sereno’s new Listening Suite is what phonophiles’ dreams are made ofDesigned by Patricia Urquiola and Il Sereno founder and audiophile Luis Contreras, the new Lake Como-facing suite unites Japanese listening culture with Italian design
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
