Mood board: Last October saw the opening of ‘She Walks in Beauty’, the Olivier Theyskens retrospective at MoMu in Antwerp, an amazing feat for a designer just past 40 who has helmed Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory. The exhibition explored the gothic romanticism of Theyskens’ aesthetic, its name taken from a Lord Byron poem of 1813. For A/W 2018, it was punky platform boots that carried models walked down the catwalk in, dressed in grungy leather trousers paired with chunky knitwear with Theyskens’ signature hook and eye details, bleached denim lace, panel slip dresses and tuxedo jackets. The collection was a nod to the 1990s, accompanied by a thrashy guitar soundtrack, and in their stacked platforms, the models towered over the catwalk like sinister statues.
Best in show: Amongst the pretty wearable pieces in Theyskens’ signature black colour palette, there were camisoles, bias cut dresses and velvet Le Smoking jackets in menthol, ivory and burgundy. Infinitely wearable pieces, whether your persuasion is for something gothic, or more for a well-cut jacket, marked with Theyskens’ impeccable tailoring.
Finishing touches: Those towering platform boots stole the show, and shaped the A/W 2018 silhouette into something punky, grungy and darkly ethereal. The styling of the collection was imbued with a tough touch of The Matrix, or thrash metal bands.
