Mary Katrantzou A/W 2018
Scene setting: Central Saint Martin’s alumna Mary Katrantzou returned once more to the university of her fashion education for her A/W 2018 collection, holding her show in the cavernous entrance space at 1 Granary Square. Katrantzou named her collection ‘Interior Lives’ and this was reflected in a catwalk set up with rows of glass blocks at head, resembling the tiled design of a bathroom or the inner decoration of a home.
Mood board: The final catwalk soundtrack of the show was ‘Just my Imagination’ by The Cranberries, a poignant musical accompaniment that reflected the diverse and antithetical references that inspired Katrantzou’s A/W 2018 collection. The designer referenced the graphic nature of Bauhaus, the ostentation of William Morris and the rich tapestries of wallpapers and tapestries at stately homes. Victoriana floral dresses in rich velvet came with graphic Bauhaus panels, graphic fake fur coats appeared evoked retro carpets and tailored trouser suits were cut in antique toned damask and cinched at the waist in a nod to the shape of Victorian lampshades. It was a luxurious and decadent collection – clothing that wouldn’t look out of place worn in the drawing rooms of Chatsworth House.
Best in show: Katrantzou first rose to fame for her imaginative digital printing, and for A/W 2018, she looked to the concept of Pointillism, with ruffled skirts and figure skimming long sleeve dresses detailed with kaleidoscopic velvet micro dots and beading. The designer likened the art style to today’s CMYK printing process, a modern twist on nineteenth century painting style. In an unusual collaboration, Katrantzou also teamed up with outerwear label Moose Knuckles, on a series of tapestry coats in antique shades.