Jil Sander A/W 2017

Mood board: Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga pulled off a smooth palette of impeccably crafted wool felts this season, delivering a collection of monochromatic looks that covered nearly every hour of the day. It was minimal, of course – the house of Jil Sander has long been a printless paradise. Here, Paglialunga worked on newly puffed volumes and sharp simple cutting, especially on round shoulders and high volume sleeves, increasingly emboldened by a newfound assurance with each season.

Best in show: There were plenty of daytime knockouts, such as the non-quilted camel hair puffer coat – smooth, creamy and voluminous – paired with a monochromatic skirt and top, as well as a some great ribbed sleeveless turtleneck sweaters that swung like perfect cropped boxes. But the real dazzlers came at the end with a series of shimmering bronze and copper Lurex dresses that shone like liquid metal.

Finishing touches: Hard case leather handbags were softened this season with straps made from pastel satin ribbons. Shoes, meanwhile, feature contrast coloured cap toes and thin bands of white platform heels ton the bottom of sturdy pumps.

JJ Martin