Roland Mouret A/W 2017

Scene setting: In celebration of his 20th anniversary, the designer, famed for inventing the square necklined and nipped-waisted ‘Galaxy’ dress, returned to London Fashion Week after showing in Paris for a decade. The designer chose the ground floor entrance of the brutalist National Theatre as his runway location, with models navigating a catwalk intersected with concrete pillars.

Best in show: Mouret’s colour palette included combinations of teal, orange and purple, and more gothic closing colour combinations of black, midnight blue and metallic. A black velvet cape, fastened with a thick tassel and paired with a glittering knee length dress was elegant and mysterious.

Finishing touches: Ring detail chokers were teamed with all 40 runway looks, from a taupe hammered satin top and skirt with an asymmetric hem to a sheer mesh top with a flocked fern print, bringing a new S&M-inspired modernity to Mouret’s designs.