Mood board: John Galliano took an eclectic bowerbird approach to his A/W 2016 Margiela collection, marrying a patchwork of military inspired outerwear pieces with overtly feminine, if not dainty, sheer pinafores, pussy bows blouses and billowing gowns. As the show notes read: a collection where the ‘bourgeois and brutal are encrusted within hybrid garments’.
Best in show: Iridescence was liberally sprinkled throughout the défilé collection from a Lurex pleated skirt that softened Galliano’s khaki officer tailoring with its molten luster, to a number of bias-cut gowns that shimmered with pearlescence. Transparent blouses held the same beetle wing nacreous, along with the Brit’s spun sugar thin pinafores, before a silver Glomesh topped the heavy metal weight in.
Finishing touches: Buckle up: Galliano’s bringing the belt back in a big way with supersized, Western-style hardware that cinched most of his eccentrically layered looks. On foot it was jazzy Ziggy Stardust platform boots, tricked up penny loafers or flashy silver hiking boots.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The great American museum boomNine of the world’s top ten most expensive, recently announced cultural projects are in the US. What is driving this investment, and is this statistic sustainable?
-
Here’s how Heathrow is reimagining airport chaos as ambient musicGrammy-nominated Jordan Rakei turns travel noise into a meditative soundtrack by sampling everything from baggage belts to jet engines
-
Wallpaper* checks into Gansevoort Meatpacking, an art-filled hotel that mirrors the district’s glow-upThis sharp, stylish New York hotel is a fixture in its neighbourhood, where boutiques, restaurants and clubs have long since taken over spaces once occupied by slaughterhouses
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
