Isabel Marant A/W 2016
Mood board: It was back to the 1980s with a skintight bang at Isabelle Marant, where the models wore teeny-weeny mini skirts, lots of leather, line-backer shoulder pieces and enough permed hair and nasty gal fishnet stockings to get them through the door of the Palladium for at least a full year.
Best in show: Despite the dubious starting point, this show had plenty of catnip for Marant’s voracious fashion consumers. The oversized mannish coats looked positively edible over the bun-skimming dresses while novelty knitwear such as punk-like fisherman’s sweaters, while holed sweaters worn with patent leather pencil skirts are going to be next season’s big hits.
Finishing touches: Has there ever been a show where Marant didn’t deliver the new shoe of the season? Come autumn, it’s going to be a flat, creeper-like pointed toe bootie crowned with rocker buckles and a vamp covered with animal print pony skin. It sounds intimidating but was in fact, the perfect, low maintenance accompaniment to the fancy tulle and shine factor happening on the clothes.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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