Scene setting: Ever since Jason Wu took the helm as artistic director, Boss has embraced a strong architectural and design sensibility that continues to come to the fore. This season, the modernist touches couldn’t be clearer with a grid of Breuer-esque ceiling lights decking out the industrial show space at Skylight Clarkson. The design-centric setting was completed by a De Chirico-style archway that models walked through.
Best in show: Boss’ architectural signature was consciously applied to the female form this season, with undulating lines that traced the figure being a consistent theme throughout. A blend of precision and imperfection (curvilinear seams were rendered in contrasting fabrics that added texture), this ingenious spin on the notion of tailoring also manifested in dresses that were made out of strips of hand-frayed chiffon, which allowed glimpses of skin underneath to come through.
Finishing touches: Boss’ accessories embraced the same interplay of contrasting textures. There was also the appearance of a new, generously sized hobo shape in a patchwork of suede, calfskin and calf hair. Softly structured, yet teamed with a broad woven shoulder strap, the bag is as versatile partner to the strong, power-packed collection.
