Scene setting: Once again Margaret Howell has chosen to unveil her new collection at the Rambert dance company’s Brutalist South Bank building – a stark location that is at once a contrast and a complement to Howell’s warm English materials and clean lines. 

Best in show: Expert at collections that borrow from men’s wardrobe staples, Howell has the way to wear a loose fitting trouser with a crisp shirt and fitted blazer down to an art. It made seeing a slightly more luxurious piece like a burgundy velvet shift dress a welcome variation on austere feminine dressing. 

Finishing touches: Make-up artist Pica Lucia’s hand – light and natural, focusing on the skin and preserving each girl’s natural beauty and personality – was a great match with Beat Bolliger’s unfussy styling that make this collection a perfect example of realistic womenswear. 

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