This was Rick Owens on repeat - quite literally. Although not in the sense of a lack of ideas, it was more in case you may have missed something (easy to do with his conceptual wears), so Owens sent his 40 looks around again, and again. Perhaps he thought we'd be distracted by the Eiffel Tower, shining through the Trocadéro setting's window? Suffice to say, once we got it, Owens again achieved the round of smiles he'd plastered across his audience's faces at last season's stomping dance troupe romp. And again he worked with the idea of diversity, casting women of all ages and races from the extended Owens family. As for the clothes, the designer toyed with cocoon silhouettes and more specifically the armhole, dropping sleeves so low they were almost constricting, while others such as his stamped croc sack dresses were missing them all together. The neck was also important, funnelled to the extreme on silk dresses that were finished with obi-style bows at the nape. Moving his mono-coloured layered looks in black, dove grey and plum forward, the designer's signature leather pieces were updated for winter with a pleating detailing, while the biker got an inflated, free-standing hood that Smurfed up at the back - reworking Owens' nun. Other headwear resembled a concertina, raw silk air-con pipe, while his rubber-capped, white-soled, thigh-high leather sneakers are sure to be a commercial hit. Then came new felt embroidered jackets, again with obi bows from behind, and matching shorts, before Owens emerged for his bow with a knowing grin that seemed intent on making sure we got it.
-
Japanese designer Shinichiro Ogata's latest venture is a modern riff on the traditions of his home countryAs he launches Saboe, a series of new tearooms and shops across Japan, we delve into Shinichiro Ogata's creative vision, mirrored throughout the spaces and objects, rituals and moments of his projects
-
These are Dover Street Market’s jewellery designers to watch, exhibiting at the London store all summerIn a special exhibition, Dover Street Market London is highlighting 36 emerging jewellery designers to know – shop our pick of their pieces
-
A street-like Pune clubhouse celebrates the ‘joy of shared, unhurried experiences’A brick clubhouse in Pune by Studio VDGA reflects the fluidity and openness of the Indian way of life with a series of welcoming plazas, courtyards and lanes
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
At home with Rick OwensAs California-born fashion designer Rick Owens is named one of the Wallpaper* USA 300 – a celebration of creative America – we revisit our conversation with Owens in the run-up to his S/S 2023 menswear show last year
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
