Mood board: Last season, the textile duo Stefan Cooke and partner Jake Burt reflected on their earlier work, looking at contemporary notions of craft and the playful pop-art qualities of tromp l’oeil. For their first standalone show, their collection took inspiration from the archetypal theatre archive and the Off-Broadway scene in New York, where the duo had spent some time this year. Designers are so often found rootling around historical dress collections, yet Cooke was interested in how the look can be recreated with minimal funds. The resulting collection saw scans of original antique costumes and court dress applied onto inexpensive canvas and cotton. A frock coat from the Royal National Theatre archives was printed onto an engineered smock; a 15th-century dress seemingly wrapped itself around a pair of trousers.
Scene setting: The season looked at the getting in-and-out of costume, on stage and off. The duo mused on the downtime dressing of drama students juxtaposed with the mad flurry of costume changes that might happen mid-show, when elaborate stage wear is undone in seconds with the yank of a zip. Set designer Zechariah Miah created a washing line installation down the centre of the show space; white cotton sheets, just hitting the floor, were reminiscent of theatre curtains ready to be drawn, yet also alluded to the everyday drama of domesticity.
Best in show: The craftsmanship at work for S/S20 included standout diamond cut-out knits. Central to the season was a beautiful hand-tied tulle overlay applied onto trousers, the sleeves of a three-button wool shirt jacket and made into sheer vests. The textile was used as a reference to the conservation lace used to prevent the decay of old fabrics left to languish in the archive.
Stefan Cooke S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Stefan Cooke S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Stefan Cooke S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Stefan Cooke S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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The return of the bullhead: the watch design that refuses to conformLittle known outside of watch circles, but enthusiastically collected within them, bullhead watches have always been divisive. Identified by the crown at 12 o’clock, it made design sense – no digging into the wrist, allowing easier function as a stopwatch - but remains a speciality. But now, the bullhead is back
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Tour Peridot, Hong Kong’s hypnotic new barLocated on the 38th floor of The Henderson, Studio Paolo Ferrari’s latest project is a study in ‘light, refraction, and intimacy’
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Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
