Mood board: There’s an emotional charge to Götesson’s approach to clothes – his models are swaddled in fabric and archetypal teen uniforms are rebuilt. Hardy fabrics like denim and cotton jersey are twisted around the body with technical rigour and sensitive line. Backstage, the designer spoke about masculinity as something radical and romantic. ‘This queer sensibility connects with everything I do,’ he said. In recent years, London’s dialogue with gender has gone far beyond showing male models in skirts. For Götesson it is in the fall of a fabric or the embellishment of a cuff – the stories hidden inside the clothes.
Best in show: This was classic draping but for a strong, grown-up man. ‘I think this vision of masculinity, and sort of trying to grasp this, is a more inclusive and creative approach from which to build. It comes from a queer place but it is not excluding anyone,’ Götesson said. Old photographs of his partner and frequent collaborator, jeweller Husam El Odeh, became hand-beaded panels stitched onto white shirts and t-shirts; denim was hand-washed, bleached and then washed again, embellished with found bottle-tops. Fabrics swooped around the body with precision and poetry. There was a corporeal gall to the glamour.
Team work: Götesson tailors clothes to the body yet is keen to discover fresh ways of working. He has continued his collaboration with Kathy Mcgee – whom he met whilst a student at RCA – to create biker trousers, an oversize trench and zipped windbreaker using 3D-modelling programs. Her approach is about saving materials and minimising the cost of toiling. ’I am just always interested in finding new processes of making things; for someone like me who uses their hands, it is interesting to use digital technologies because it isn’t my language. I work with one piece and drape, Kathy does it with 300 pieces!’ Götesson said.
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Richard Seifert's London: 'Urban, modern and bombastically brutalist'London is full of Richard Seifert buildings, sprinkled with the 20th-century architect's magic and uncompromising style; here, we explore his prolific and, at times, controversial career
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Fantasy – and incredible seafood – await at Carbone Riviera, now open at the Bellagio in Las VegasInterior design powerhouse Martin Brudnizki drew on the Côte d'Azur and Picasso’s ceramics for Major Food Group’s latest Sin City outpost
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LeShuttle ups its game with a forthcoming new terminal design by Hollaway StudioLeShuttle’s overhauled terminal in Folkestone will befit its role as the prime hub for the channel tunnel and as a gateway into Europe
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
