Backstage Oliver Spencer S/S 2020
Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Established in 2002, Spencer sought to create a brand that was modern and unstuffy. Today the self-taught tailor has four standalone shops as well as an international online business; his vision is uncomplicated, unpretentious and unfiltered. The relaxed tailoring for which he is known is standout for style and sustainability too. The label has made a commitment to make more ecological choices to reduce its carbon footprint, so organic cottons, linens and cotton/linen blends were the focal point for S/S20. Safari pyjama style suits were smooth and smart.

Scene setting: The show was staged inside a former bullion truck yard turned two-level outdoor food market in Shoreditch. His strong cast sauntered through the space decorated with Chinese paper lanterns in all shapes and sizes; fortune cookies and sweets were piled up onto tables as Spencer recreated the feel of Kowloon’s Temple Street Market at night.

Sound bite: S/S20 was inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love. ‘It is simply one of the best films ever made! Three hours of extraordinary filming – a master class in framing and I love him,’ Spencer said backstage. The designer was in Hong Kong for 48 hours last October and was energized by its chaos and contradictions. ‘It was just as a city should be with the romance of the islands, the monochrome skyline and everything else.’ Spencer collaborated with wild fragrance brand Haeckels on a candle with a unique ‘Hong-Kong scent’ for the show, available to purchase through Spencer's Buy Now Vero feed. §

Backstage Oliver Spencer S/S 2020

Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Backstage Oliver Spencer S/S 2020

Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Backstage Oliver Spencer S/S 2020

Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Backstage Oliver Spencer S/S 2020

Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.