Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s
Artistic director Alessandro Sartori presents his sophisticated vision of techno couture

Mood board: Men’s ready-to-wear has been infiltrated by the sorts of well-cut sweatshirts, roomy tailored cargo trousers and logo-laden accessories that were once the hallmarks of outsider/skateboarder cool. The result is a new standard. From wide, longer length shorts to small zipped accessories worn across the chest, a certain West-coast nonchalance has become the blueprint for much of what is presented during the seasonal shows.
Designers working with luxury fabrics and fine tailoring have taken note. For spring, artistic director Alessandro Sartori continued to interpret this look within the artisanal vocabulary of Zegna. Entitled ‘Weightlessness’, the collection married the look of sports and performance wear, together with the fabrications of couture tailoring.
Scene setting: The show was staged on a narrow catwalk, stretched across the surrounding lake at publisher Mondadori’s extraordinary offices, designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer in 1975. Located close to Linate Airport, the monumental building mirrors the headquarters of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs that Niemeyer completed five years earlier in Brasília. Both are set on vast stretches of calm, flat water making them look as if they are suspended in mid-air.
Best in show: The look had an Eighties sensibility. Silhouettes were wide and sportif – boxy shirt jackets, dégradé check tracksuits and tailored high-waisted double-pleat trousers had roomier fits. Guests sported the brand’s high top Tiziano sneakers in leather, stamped with the XXX logo, and the models wore calfskin and mesh styles available to buy direct from the catwalk.
Trackpants can be zipped off at the knee to become shorts; long parkas borrowed their lightness from summer shirting. ‘Creation for me always stems from a technical challenge. I am presenting shapes that are bold and voluminous, yet very light, in layers of meshes, wools, silks,’ Sartori said. Standout were the pieces shown in a textured Tussah silk produced by Lanificio Zegna using yarns foraged from the wild. Techno couture indeed.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Wild sauna, anyone? The ultimate guide to exploring deep heat in the UK outdoors
‘Wild Sauna’, a new book exploring the finest outdoor establishments for the ultimate deep-heat experience in the UK, has hit the shelves; we find out more about the growing trend
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 shows
The Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to know
Designing the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Fendi to Dior: A/W 2021’s standout menswear shows
Join us as we delight in the A/W 2021 menswear shows, featuring digital catwalk collections from brands including Fendi, Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion week
Themes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's