Junya Watanabe Man S/S 2017
Mood board: Shoppers flock to Junya Watanabe because of its playful reassessment of archetypal men’s clothes; smart jackets, neat denims and tidy shirts are always at the fore. The S/S collection was shown in a concrete parking garage, festooned with colorful graffiti and was modelled by a cast of gypsy mobsters, some of whom had tattoos painted on for the show. All in all, Watanabe pushed a more relaxed, laid-back look for the season drawing inspiration from the 1998 Serbian farce, Black Cat, White Cat directed by Emir Kusturica.
Best in show: Hybrid garments for the modern man; fine wool suiting had tough biker jacket sleeves attached in leather. Denim jackets – the result of an ongoing collaboration with Levis – had sleeves that were turned inside out, revealing paisley print lining. A double breasted jacket was worn with swagger, the matching trouser finished with an athletic, jersey rib cuff at the ankle.
Team work: Like his early mentor Rei Kawakubo, Watanabe is notoriously singular in his approach. He chooses to forego traditional advertising and retail in favour of collaborations with other brands. Spring embraces multiple collaborations; Levi’s for denim, knitwear from John Smedley and shoes by Heinrich Dinkelacker.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
A new limited-edition Rhodes piano and Gibson doubleneck guitar aim for the stars
The new Rhodes Mk8 Earth Edition piano and Gibson Jimmy Page EDS-1275 Doubleneck guitar revisit classic instruments at a price
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
The new interior design trends we spotted at Salone del Mobile 2024
These are the interior design trends to look out for in 2024 and beyond, from soft upholstery to conversation pits and low dining
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Tiffany & Co nods to its theatrical history with a surreal new campaign
Tiffany & Co campaign ‘With Love, Since 1837’ sees Dan Tobin Smith and set designer Rachel Thomas create an offbeat set
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated