Kenzo S/S 2016

Mood board: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have often drawn on the theme of exploration, whether it be across oceans or on land. For spring/summer 2016, they envisioned a desert that wasn’t quite terra incognita; in fact, it was designed to feel interplanetary. Here they merged an almost-exclusively bleached, stony palette (save for flashes of hibiscus or lime) with technical fabrications (leather mesh, papery nylon, bonded jersey, waterproof cotton and a space-age cactus knit) and functional features like drawstrings that modified silhouettes, and thick treaded all-terrain boots. Incidentally, Lim drew from her experiences skydiving, which explains the geo-mapped prints.

Scene setting: Scenography is always an integral ingredient to a Kenzo show. Guests entered into a cavernous space generously covered in sand and punctuated with vintage hydraulic light stations and boulders (more like meteors) that sparkled silver. As the electronic soundtrack, custom created by Jason Pierce, began to crescendo, the rocks rotated faster and faster. Credit goes to Etienne Russo for the production design, which left a lasting impact even once the sand was shaken out of shoes.

Sound bite: 'There’s a duality between outer space and the everyday experience,' says Leon. 'We really played on the prints as part of the history of the house. But there are other moments where it’s about silhouette, individuality and functionality and we always talk about exploring all aspects.' Lim adds, 'I think the journey for us is supposed to feel familiar yet unfamiliar. We like to play between places you might have been and places you want to go.'

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans