'Hey baby, take a walk on the wild side.' An Italian rendition of Lou Reed's swinging ode to adventure pumped through the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild yesterday for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli's veritable Valentino 'art safari'. Borrowing from the label's recent couture and resort outings, this vivid menswear collection saw retro wallpaper florals and a menagerie of fantastical birds, beasts and butterflies take foot and flight across military and pyjama-like vestments - their proportions both exaggerated and refined in opulent suede and double cashmere, silk jacquards, and leather-trimmed fine-gauge wools. Staking claim on the wardrobe of 'outsiders and freethinkers', the designers applied such a myriad of decorative elements to fundamental shapes as to cause hallucinogenic transformation. A pea green suede Harrington jacket was turned to reveal a fanning peacock appliqué on its back, along with Dali-esque enamel lapel pins. A field jacket was similarly heavy with mythological brocade featuring giant squid, unicorns and exotic birds. Their ubiquitous camouflage also returned painted in splashes of red across a taupe leather coat, however the new 'camubutterfly' is set for a lavish takeover, swarming across coats and blazers in a dusty print or daring, lustrous embroidery.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Hanker after a 1970s supercar? The Encor Series 1 elevates the Lotus Esprit to a new levelThis limited-edition remastering of the dramatic wedge-shaped Lotus Esprit stops at nothing to improve and enhance the original without losing sight of its analogue excellence
-
A new photo book takes you behind the scenes of some of cinema's most beloved films, from 'Fargo' to 'Charlie's Angels'Set decorator Lauri Gaffin captures Hollywood's quieter moments in an arresting new book
-
This sculptural London seafood restaurant was shaped by ‘the emotions of the sea’In Hanover Square, Mazarine pairs a bold, pearlescent interior with modern coastal cuisine led by ‘bistronomy’ pioneer chef Thierry Laborde
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Inside the new Fondazione Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti in Rome, which opens with an ode to ‘Valentino Red’Wallpaper* gets a private tour of the new Roman institution, PM23, which opens with an exhibition of ‘dialogues’ between Valentino Garavani’s designs and a catalogue of red-hued contemporary art
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Valentino’s theatrical new exhibition celebrates the house founder’s 90th birthdayAt Teatro Sociale di Voghera, a new exhibition marks seminal designer Valentino Garavani’s 90th birthday, collating pieces from his time at the helm with ‘Valentino red’ taking centre stage
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
