A recent change of the guard at the Margiela menswear department has stirred a beautiful nostalgia in the collections. Yet rather than resembling a caricature of Martin's own work, it is instead a respectful look at soft layered tailoring with obtuse diversions into the avant-garde. This spring took ideas of freedom and movement as cornerstones for a quirky exercise in workwear, uniforms and formality skewed. Opening in chalky tones and closing in a barrage of marigold, mandarin, sapphire and emerald hues, the Maison's gaze shifted from the apocalyptic survivalism of last season towards a playful and boyish attitude. This manifested in the schoolboy play of skin under a double-breasted chesterfield coat or the way tied parachute pants dropped with a second waistband at the hip. Trousers were spliced, half denim half suiting wool, with a trickier version fusing a suit pant with a towelling short and sock. A finale of beaded bodies channelled the spirit of the Artisanal line, emblazoned with varsity symbolism like brilliant tattoos.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
