A recent change of the guard at the Margiela menswear department has stirred a beautiful nostalgia in the collections. Yet rather than resembling a caricature of Martin's own work, it is instead a respectful look at soft layered tailoring with obtuse diversions into the avant-garde. This spring took ideas of freedom and movement as cornerstones for a quirky exercise in workwear, uniforms and formality skewed. Opening in chalky tones and closing in a barrage of marigold, mandarin, sapphire and emerald hues, the Maison's gaze shifted from the apocalyptic survivalism of last season towards a playful and boyish attitude. This manifested in the schoolboy play of skin under a double-breasted chesterfield coat or the way tied parachute pants dropped with a second waistband at the hip. Trousers were spliced, half denim half suiting wool, with a trickier version fusing a suit pant with a towelling short and sock. A finale of beaded bodies channelled the spirit of the Artisanal line, emblazoned with varsity symbolism like brilliant tattoos.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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