Kris Van Assche is celebrating a decade of his eponymous label this season, with the 20th anniversary show 'Illusion' tracing back through his design signatures 'to look forward optimistically to the next twenty', he said. That reminiscing took Van Assche back to the relaxed, full silhouettes of 1980s and 1990s youth, in a mash up of rebellious codes that saw his pleat shorts and suit trousers slashed at the knee and worn with elongated bombers or zipped Harrington jackets, disrupted by athletic and reflective stripes. Biro-blue printed looks mimicked washed-out denim and deep chartreuse wool echoed the tarnished gold of his freestanding palatial backdrop, whilst Fair Isle knit tees and colour-blocked shirting popped in glaring orange and khaki. Those shirts were a noted kickback to Van Assche's twisted tailoring - their abbreviated ties stopping short down the torso, as though tucked into thin air.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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