Mood board: Last year the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris staged a glorious exhibition unpicking the unique story of the Maharaja d’Indore – Yeshwant Rao Holkar Bahadur. Bahadur was a figure across both the European and Indian cultural set who commissioned The Manik Bagh Palace, one of the most well-known Modernist constructions of 1930s India. ‘He was an incredible drifter through different cities. He decided to abandon his past in India and embrace Modernism. He was photographed with Man Ray and went into the Surrealist movement – he was this person who just drifted into different things in life. This idea of an urban drifter was interesting to me,’ artistic director Clare Waight Keller said. A/W 20 featured glossed leather trousers and oversized patchwork knits, heavy metal capped boots, bullion thread and crystal embroideries. The look was eclectic yet precise.
Best in show: Slimline tailoring, double-breasted blazers and nipped-in coats were clasped shut with brooches, kilt pins and fob chains laden with charms. Backstage, Keller spoke of the different cultures the prince mingled with; in 1938, he married for a second time in Los Angeles and this mood was translated into a sharpness of suiting. A more urban style paired with the couture elements such as the latex high collar undershirts by Atsuko Kudo and full, hand-embroidered opulent evening wear.
Sound bite: One year on from presenting her first standalone menswear collection for the house, Keller is developing the 1970s glamour and élan she seems to enjoy. ‘A/W 20 is a slightly tougher guy. I have two sides of my menswear – last season was the more urban side but, in Paris, I wanted to remember that really sharp Givenchy, the dark, mysterious romantic that is running through all of my work here.’ An opulence flowing into the couture. ‘The Maharaja d’Indore had this incredible dynamic of moving though different cultures in life and I think that sort of speaks to the way we should be in the world today.’ A spontaneous elegance for new age nomads.
-
Could reimagining play reshape childhood? 21st Europe argues for playgrounds as infrastructureA new blueprint by think tank 21st Europe and Spacon calls for playgrounds to be treated as vital civic infrastructure – on par with museums, stations and energy grids
-
In Vietnam, Amanoi’s most indulgent residence yet is almost hidden on an East Sea clifftopAman’s ‘place of peace’ in Vietnam introduces the Amanoi Ocean Pool Residence, an architectural feat complete with its own private beach and spa
-
Yinka Ilori just teamed up with M.A.D. Editions on a trio of ultra-colourful watchesBut hurry – you'll need to enter a raffle to score one for yourself
-
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, A/W 2025’s best menswear captures a ‘menacing elegance’‘A menacing, seductive elegance,’ is how Anthony Vaccarello described his A/W 2025 menswear collection for Saint Laurent, capturing a mood that ran through the season. Here, as seen in Wallpaper’s September 2025 cover shoot and film, a series of looks that invite a sense of risk when dressing for the months ahead
-
How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
-
‘Never copy the past’: how Nicolas Di Felice is taking Courrèges into the futureAt Courrèges, artistic director Nicolas Di Felice is marrying radical thinking, raving and reinterpreted minimalist codes to give the French fashion house a new dynamism. Hannah Tindle heads to Paris to meet the designer
-
Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and futureThe Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
-
Art meets perfume in cross-disciplinary fragrance series Nez 1+1Talents from film and fragrance come together to create Ansongo, the latest scent resulting from a creative matchmaking project by perfume revue Nez
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
-
‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne StudiosHeralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
