Scene setting: The showspace for JW Anderson’s first menswear show in Paris was a shadowy series of five rooms. Each contained a range of sculptures and a black sandy floor in ode to the American painter and sculptor Paul Thek. Thek’s first works to be exhibited in the mid 1960s were called ‘meat pieces’. They were mini sculptures made up of wood, melamine laminate, metal, wax, paint and hair, encased in Plexiglas boxes. Together with his partner, the photographer Peter Hujar, he moved around with the period’s intelligentsia, including sculptor Eva Hesse, artist Andy Warhol and writer Susan Sontag. Thek’s 1975 work The Personal Effects of the Pied Piper – a series of nine sculptures in black patina bronze – inspired the dark, otherworldly staging.
Mood board: The clothes were layered, elongated, wrapped around the body in different ways. A study in proportion and protection. Models wore shearling collars trimmed in fluro orange or white over shirts and coats. Prairie-style check shirts had long pussy bow collars, left undone, trailing down the front of the chest. Tweed coats had cutaway sides, exposing ribbed knitwear underneath. Knits had curved fronts. Technical fabric bloomers with elasticated cuffs were sometimes worn over pin-stripe trousers or just on their own. The look was unfurled, hurried. Rushed. During his lifetime Thek regularly declared: ‘I’m against interpretation,’ if anybody tried to discuss his work with him. Anderson’s latest collection suggests that he might feel the same.
Sound bite: Many of the looks included wool hoods with silver clasps that swung as the models walked. ‘I thought, how do you reinterpret garments and how they should be worn? It’s the first time in a while that we have gone back to designing a men’s and women’s collection together as a continuous language. There is a kind of earthly, nomadic feel to it, where you don’t know whether it’s a beginning or an end,’ Anderson said backstage.
-
The bespoke Jaguar E-Type GTO melds elements from every era of the classic sports carECD Automotive Design’s one-off commission caters to a client who wanted to combine the greatest hits of Jaguar’s E-Type along with modern conveniences and more power
-
Casa Sanlorenzo debuts in Venice as a new hub for contemporary artThe luxury yachting leader unveils a stunning new space in a palazzo restored by Piero Lissoni – where art, innovation, and sustainability come together
-
Once vacant, London's grand department stores are getting a new lease on lifeThanks to imaginative redevelopment, these historic landmarks are being rebonr as residences, offices, gyms and restaurants. Here's what's behind the trend
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
-
How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
