Mood board: Husband-and-wife designers Luke and Lucie Meier looked to create balance, pairing sharp tailoring with a softened approach to building a modern wardrobe. The cerebral minimalism of the label’s founder has been through a few hands in the last decade and its current gatekeepers are closer to defining their own epoch. Theirs is a language rooted in utilitarian standards; monochromatic elegance. For A/W 2019 they showed hand-stitched canvas structuring within tailored coats; patchwork silks and knits. A calfskin pair of slim trousers with matching casual cut shirt set the mood. It was icy and cool.
Best in show: The silhouette was narrowed and geometric as is their wont – at OAMC, Luke Meier pushes a workwear narrative in pale colours – at Sander, the line is more flowing. Contemporary menswear takes most of its shape from military designs. The bomber jacket, for example, became standard issue for the U.S. Air Corp in 1931, long before it was a staple piece in men’s wardrobes. The duo gently padded outerwear to give it bounce. The clothes had the hallmarks of functional uniforms but with a modernist metier.
Finishing touches: Uniforms inspired more than just the pockets or button placement on jackets. Accessories borrowed heavily from the accoutrements and insignia worn by army personnel, with sleek leather box bags slung across the body, attached to belts. Elsewhere, trench coats were layered over suiting as if ready for their marching orders. A backpack was knitted into the back of a jumper. Trousers were cuffed.
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
