Mood board: on the first day of the Paris menswear shows, the Louis Vuitton press office announced that men’s artistic director Kim Jones would be leaving. Since 2011, Jones has created a clear, covetable look for the house, blending its 164-year history as a maker of luggage with a street smart stance. He has continued to blend together the ease and attitude of sportswear together with a world of cultural experiences. Fittingly his A/W 2018 collection comes from a cross country perspective – entitled ‘Overview’, it suggests multiple landscapes, clothes worn layered; perceptions shifted.
Best in show: throughout are a splash of references taken from far flung places: flankman shorts of the American rodeo are worn over sporty leggings; a soft shearling and mink intarsia coat brings to mind the grand remoteness and pattern of Siberia from above. Jones is skilled at inconspicuously easing you into a world of ultimate luxury; his neat three-button cashmere and vicuña tailoring borrows technical details from climbing gear. Key to A/W 2018 are aerial photographs captured during a helicopter flight across Kenya; they are printed directly onto long shorts, jackets and skinny jersey zipped tops. They have also influenced the overall colour range lifted from the desert and mountain terrain.
Finishing touches: standout are the shoes, designed as a collage of archetypal styles. A cowboy boot meets a hiking shoe, tightly laced. Python is on the upper of high-impact sports trainers. For the man on the move, Jones delivers the iconic speedy tote in a scaled up size and worn across the body. A/W 2018 unveils a new backpack and two messengers; a classic hard-case is scaled down to become a shoulder messenger. Jones shouldn’t have any problem packing up and moving on.
