Louis Vuitton A/W 2018

Kim Jones bids farewell to the Parisian house after a splendid seven year tenure

Three male models wearing looks from Louis Vuitton's collection. One model is wearing a grey jacket and bag with orange elements featuring the Louis Vuitton signature pattern. Next to him is a model wearing a beige jumper, long necklace, grey jacket and orange backpack. And the third model is wearing a light coloured metallic and blue shirt with a patterned high neck top underneath
Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: on the first day of the Paris menswear shows, the Louis Vuitton press office announced that men’s artistic director Kim Jones would be leaving. Since 2011, Jones has created a clear, covetable look for the house, blending its 164-year history as a maker of luggage with a street smart stance. He has continued to blend together the ease and attitude of sportswear together with a world of cultural experiences. Fittingly his A/W 2018 collection comes from a cross country perspective – entitled ‘Overview’, it suggests multiple landscapes, clothes worn layered; perceptions shifted.

Best in show: throughout are a splash of references taken from far flung places: flankman shorts of the American rodeo are worn over sporty leggings; a soft shearling and mink intarsia coat brings to mind the grand remoteness and pattern of Siberia from above. Jones is skilled at inconspicuously easing you into a world of ultimate luxury; his neat three-button cashmere and vicuña tailoring borrows technical details from climbing gear. Key to A/W 2018 are aerial photographs captured during a helicopter flight across Kenya; they are printed directly onto long shorts, jackets and skinny jersey zipped tops. They have also influenced the overall colour range lifted from the desert and mountain terrain.

Finishing touches: standout are the shoes, designed as a collage of archetypal styles. A cowboy boot meets a hiking shoe, tightly laced. Python is on the upper of high-impact sports trainers. For the man on the move, Jones delivers the iconic speedy tote in a scaled up size and worn across the body. A/W 2018 unveils a new backpack and two messengers; a classic hard-case is scaled down to become a shoulder messenger. Jones shouldn’t have any problem packing up and moving on.

Five male models wearing looks from Louis Vuitton's collection. One model is wearing a blue jumper, chain and has a metallic piece wrapped around his waist. Next to him is a model wearing a long grey shirt style piece with a black crossbody bag. The third model is wearing a grey suit and black and brown crossbody bag featuring the signature Louis Vuitton pattern. The fourth model is wearing a dark coloured top and trousers and partially open grey coat. And the fifth model is wearing a beige top, brown floral leather jacket and dark coloured trousers

Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Four male models wearing looks from Louis Vuitton's collection. One model is wearing a grey jacket with blue sleeveless piece over the top, a yellow lanyard and black trousers. The model next to him is wearing a yellow asymmetric jumper, brown trousers, belt and is holding a yellow bag. The third model is wearing a black cowboy hat, black jumper with two lighter coloured stripes, dark grey trousers and is holding a yellow backpack. And the fourth model is wearing sunglasses, a grey, black and yellow shirt, necklace, belt and grey trousers

Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Close up view of male models wearing looks from Louis Vuitton's collection. One model is wearing a grey metallic piece with grey coat over the top. Next to him is a model wearing a dark purple striped jumper, purple jacket with fur and his black trousers and bag feature the signature Louis Vuitton pattern. Another model is wearing a brown jacket with the signature Louis Vuitton pattern. And in the background there are two models wearing black pieces

Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Three male models wearing looks from Louis Vuitton's collection. One model is wearing a black cowboy hat, black jumper with two lighter coloured stipes and is holding a yellow backpack. Next to him is a model wearing sunglasses, a black, grey and yellow shirt, necklace, grey trousers and belt. And the third model is wearing a dark coloured piece, necklace, grey coat and is holding a bag with the signature Louis Vuitton pattern

Louis Vuitton A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.