Mood board: the collection had less of the jaunty je ne sas quoi than previous seasons and felt more restrained. Creative director Jonathan Anderson drew on archetypal menswear items, reimagined through the artisanal hands of Loewe. A/W 2018’s multi-coloured nappa suede cuffed trouser, navy wool and alpaca shearling patch sweater and quilted bomber are just some of the convincing, covetable full head-to-toe options. Following on from the nomadic theme which last season manifested as a range of jolly sea-bed charms slung from bags and belt loops, we now move inland with nappa hedgehogs and ladybird coin purses to adorn the clothing. The muted palette of browns and oranges evoked the great outdoors.
Finishing touches: you’re only as good as your it-bag. Upon his arrival at the house in 2013, Anderson set about creating his own icon: the cuboid shaped Puzzle bag. It can be worn as a shoulder bag or clutch and folds completely flat. For A/W 2018 the style has been reimagined for the menswear customer and has evolved into a cross body messenger style with lace-up details. Scaled up to XXL, it comes as a roomy backpack.
Team work: Anderson encountered the work of American art photographer Duane Michals while on a visit to Tate. Michals is known for appropriating cinema’s frame-by-frame format in work he first began composing in the late 1960s, after time as a photojournalist and graphic designer. In the 1970s he began writing captions in the margins and later incorporated painting. Anderson invited the 85 year old to collaborate on a series of images of the new collection, which were on display at the brand’s Paris headquarters and will be published as a limited edition volume designed by M/M Paris. Michals photographed the British actor Josh O'Connor as a failed magician, performing in the Teatro Reina Victoria in Madrid. The 67 images evoke the feeling of a surrealist pantomime.
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São Paulo Biennial 2023: activism, repressed cultures and South America’s art history under the lensThe 35th São Paulo Biennial considers ‘Choreographies of the Impossible’ as the theme. Amah-Rose Abrams reports on what to see
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Jacqueline Rabun’s sculptural jewellery design goes on show in London
‘Jacqueline Rabun: A Retrospective’ opens at London’s Carpenters Workshop Gallery
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Tokujin Yoshioka’s flaming glass cauldron sets Tokyo alight
Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka plays with fire with an exhibition of glass torches and cauldrons, on view at 21_21 Design Sight Gallery 3 in Tokyo (until 5 November 2023)
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?
These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
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Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
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Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
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Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
